Finished it. Great feeling. Fabric bought this season from Gay Naffine and made up this season (the post about the fabric buying spree is here). It works nicely with a jacket I made a few seasons ago, which is just as well as the other pencil skirt I like to wear with this is near the end of its life.
This one is a simple pencil skirt but took a little while to get done. That’s because I played with some ‘couture’ techniques I’ve learnt from the very talented sewing bloggers out there: I interlined the skirt with organza as well as lining it.
Why did I go to all that bother? Well…. partly to try out something new and partly because I thought it might improve the final effect.
The fabric is a wool rich knit with lengthwise stretch and a very interesting selvedge. I wanted the selvedge on the bottom of the skirt. That meant the stretch was running down my body rather than around. I could end up with a skirt that grew in length. I’ve also found another knit woolen pencil skirt I made and wear quite a lot to work (desk job) ends up with a permanent extra bump at the back after sitting all day. I don’t really need any help making my derrière more obvious. So organza could be my solution- it might make the skirt keep its shape over my derrière and should stop any lengthwise stretching.
I cut the organza out the same as the skirt (with that selvedge there was no need to hem the skirt) and turned up a 15 mm hem on the organza interlining before attaching the organza piece to the main fabric all the way around by machine except for the hem; I attached the hem to the bottom of the skirt with hand stitching. I also sewed the dart marking lines through both layers before sewing the darts. I stitched around some of the bobbles to attach the organza in several spots between the waist and the hem too, by hand. The organza gave a lovely sheen to the back of the fabric.
With the front and back skirt pieces interlined with organza I then made it up treating these interlined pieces as single pieces. An invisible zip went it, in red (I thought the red zip pull at the top would add interest, but I’m probably the only one who will ever notice!) and I lined the skirt with red too. In the photo below you can see the red lining at the top and through the slit at the back.
You can also see clearly in this photo that the selvedge is not very even. This is the same all along the fabric. I could have hand sewn on some extra bits (like Jann did for the jacket she made out of this fabric) but I’m too lazy. I don’t think it’s too noticeable when its on.
skirt: Burda 07-2008-127 in size 42
jacket: Burda 12-2005-113 in size 40