This was a fun project in between the seriousness of the RTW Tailoring Sew-a-long.
I’d been wanting to try a tulip skirt with exposed zip for myself after having made one for Felicity. I didn’t have a metal zip the normal length for a skirt, but I did have a very long scarlet separating zip… and scarlet lining… and black microseude fabric, all in stash.
It was a public holiday. If I wanted to make this skirt straight away it had to be black, scarlet lined with scarlet topstitching and an exposed plastic scarlet zip from top to bottom.
As well as reminding me of Christian Louboutin shoes, sewing this skirt also made me think about vampire capes and coffins. The combination of red and black against greenery in the midday sun also made me look like a vampire…
Pattern: BurdaStyle 01-2009-105
Pattern sizing: I graded up to a 44 after checking the measurements on the pattern. I usually make a 42 with Burda but the version I made for Felicity was a bit tight and other sewists noted on Pattern Review that this pattern ran a bit small.
Changes I made:
I left off the deep topstitched hem and added 7 cm extra length and then 4 cm for the hem. I used a machine blind stitch and my new blind stitch foot on my lovely Bernina. Wow! I have been missing out without all these fancy feet. When I lengthened the pattern I adjusted the side seam so that the final hem width was the same. I wish now that I’d done the opposite and pegged the hem in even further. I might still go back and do that.
I lined the skirt and sort of interlined the pleats: I sewed the front and back of the lining together and the front and back of the skirt together, and then sewed the lining to the skirt down the centre front (more about that and the centre front zip below). After sewing the lining to the skirt down the centre front and turned the fabrics right sides out and I basted the lining to the top fabric for all the pleats, and around the waist. This project was Hand Basting Central.
The basting made it a lot easier to fold and sew the pleats through four thicknesses of fabric and then to topstitch the pleats down through six thicknesses. Lots of pins helped with this last step too!
I added a separating zip down the entire centre front, rather than just down 20 cm from the waist. I cut the front on the fold as instructed and then slit through the fold from top to bottom. The lining was sewn to the skirt, right sides together, down the centre front with a 7 mm (3/8 inch) seam allowance. This gave me 15 mm (5/8 inch) of exposed zip. I basted the zip in before machine stitching it in with red thread about 2 mm from the edge.
I had some fun with the fancy stitches that my Bernina can do, to make sure the interfacing was well attached to the facing. To also keep the waist from stretching out, I stitched a thin ribbon on top of the waist seam line (just the right red colour, too, in my stash- this skirt was meant to be..). Of course now that the facing is turned and under stitched, it could be any ribbon, but I still know it’s there…
Here’s how it looks from the back
The blouse is an old project: BurdaStyle 10-2006-106 using a border print stretch satin. I used the border print on the centre front.