The Non Tailored Jacket

No facings, no interfacing, no lining, no seam or edge finishing, no roll lines, no turn of cloth allowance, no pressing as I sewed.

Not very tailored.

Also a bit too big.

Perhaps I should stick to BurdaStyle patterns. I know how they fit.

The fabric is a double faced wool knit, so I should be able to shrink it by washing, shouldn’t I? That’s what usually happens by mistake.

I washed a 10 x 10 cm square in cold water. Still 10 x 10 cm. I steamed it. Still 10 x 10 cm. I washed it in hot water. Still 10 x 10 cm. I washed it in hot water and ironed it dry with the iron on hot. Still 10 x 10 cm. I poured boiling water on it. Some of the colour came out but it is still 10 x 10 cm. It is not felted at all.

The pattern has seaming on the back

With the collar open, the other “face” of the fabric and the raw edge construction is on display.

And it is reversible.

Technical details

Pattern: KwikSew 3827

Size: XS-S-M-L-XL. I made an M (bust 94-98 cm, waist 70-74 cm).

From flat pattern measurements through the bust, and from the sizing chart, I thought a an M would fit. I should have also measured through the shoulders. Perhaps the stretch of the knit fabric hasn’t helped either. Perhaps KwikSew patterns run big?

Fabric:

A double faced wool knit, proved now to be utterly and completely machine washable. Soft and warm with good stretch and recovery. Not felted or even pilled after soaking in boiling water.

Changes I made to the pattern:

I didn’t face or interface the collar or front, line the jacket or add pockets.

On the front and back vertical seams and the shoulder seams I used a lapped seam construction and topstitched 6 mm away from the edge as well as 2 mm from the edge. This allowed some of the red to show through on the grey side and vice versa.

For the sleeves, armscye and collar, I stitched the red sides together and then trimmed back one of the seam allowances, folded the other over the top, stitched it down 6 mm from the seam line and then trimmed off the excess. It’s a neat topstitched look on the red side, and raw edged look on the grey side.

I didn’t trim of the allowances for the sleeve and jacket hems or the top of the collar, but stitched 2 and 6 mm from the edge. This means the sleeves are a bit long, but can be turned up to show the other side.

I should try this pattern again in a woven and make it up”properly”. It has potential.

I should wear this jacket over top of lots of other layers and with a warm hat. Then it will make more sense. Perhaps next winter. Spring is just around the corner.

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16 Responses to The Non Tailored Jacket

  1. Tia Dia says:

    Wow! I really like this jacket, even though it does fit a little large on you. What a great design with all the interesting detail on the back. LOVE IT! The reverse side (grey) is spectacular with the red contrast. Just lovely.

  2. Marie-Christine says:

    Non-tailoring does sound, and look, very good :-). Your knit no doubt is superwash. It won’t felt, but try not to treat it too brutally all the same, you don’t want it to look like the shark dragged it in. Ideally, all knits should have their shoulder seams stabilized. That’d mean some clear elastic caught into the seam. But you’d lose out on the reversible part, which is very nice indeed. Or you could have subtly brought it in with some differential feed adjustment as you were sewing. But I don’t think you can do much now. Maybe run a thick floss through the inside of the serged seam and anchor it at the ends so the seam is slightly pulled in? A bit dicey for inside looks, but you could test it out? I really think half an inch or so in shoulder length would make a big difference in looks (I lack that half inch myself :-)).

    Or you could just wear a big sweater underneath..

    • Sewingelle says:

      Clear elastic in the shoulder seams. Of course! Why didn’t I think of that! The seams aren’t serged, just stitched so I might try unpicking the stitches closest to the edge and inserting some elastic before stitching the shoulder seam down again. Thanks for the tip!

  3. WandaJ says:

    This is a pattern for which I requested a review on the Pattern Review Site. Your review was sent to me and I am grateful for that. The jacket looks wonderful and your sewing details superb. I am interested in the vest (and, I don’t really care for vests!!), but your reveiw is so good that I know which fabric I am going to use to make this jacket. It’s a black wool melton that I’ve had in my stash for quite a while. Do you think that will work? :-). The back detailing on this jacket is what sold me. Fall and winter is on the way…Thanks so much.

  4. Rosy says:

    Well done! This may be the “perfect jacket” for the amount of labor saved in the construction … Great! Also … the fit is perfect, if it does not shrink … This means that no wrinkle … Wow! You can not ask for more … So beautiful!

  5. Rachel says:

    That jacket is beautiful!!! I love the back of it. For some reason I never think about looking at Kwik Sew patterns, but I am going to have to start.

  6. Catherine says:

    That is a fantastic jacket – I love the back SO much. I might even have to add that pattern to my stash… but I was doing so well sewing from the stash (both fabric and patterns) maybe I deserve to buy a new pattern??

  7. Audrey says:

    How did I miss this KS pattern? Your jacket is so pretty and unique. I love it. You chose the perfect fabric for the pattern. KS patterns are S,M and L with the measurements range for each letter covering about two sizes. So they can be a bit large if your measurements correspond to the low end of the range.

  8. Myrna says:

    Your jacket looks gorgeous. I’m just about to sew this pattern and was looking for reviews. Thanks for posting yours. Comparing back pattern pieces, it looks like I’ll go down a couple sizes to get the correct shoulder width. Normally, I sew a 14 in the big four and this looks like it would be an XS. Would that compare with your experience? Was the finished jacket quite roomy in the hips? I’m a pear so that worries me a bit even though it’ll sit above the waist. Also, the armhole seems quite low. Did you find that or…? Hope you don’t mind answering some questions. My email is myrna (at) myrnagiesbrecht (dot) com if you could reply. I’d appreciate it. Thanks.

  9. Gail says:

    Just found your blog and am following with interest. I love this jacket -even if it is a little big. Love the back seams, the reversibility and the edgy styling.

  10. Carolyn says:

    Wow, your jacket is fabulous!! And I love that it is reversible, bonus! Do you have a favourite side “out”?

    • Sewingelle says:

      The grey side is probably my favourite. The panelling shows up more, and the raw edges are more obvious, and I like the bit of red contrast. I’ve been wearing it a lot like in the second to last photo.

  11. liza jane says:

    Awesome! Love the seaming on the back and the interesting hemline. Double faced wool?! So cool! I didn’t know there was such a thing. I’m working on a non-tailored jacket right now– made of fleece with a pique front. Wish I had found a wool like this.

  12. Linda Mulhall says:

    I’m interested to know if when you did your lapped seams if you took into account that the patterns stitch lines should be lined up when you sew or if the garment became too large by virtue of the extra fabric from the seam allowances? I’m all in for the simplicity of this jacket and the fabric is glorious! You might think about using that same elastic to stabilize the back neck to avoid stretch in that area. Nice job!

    • SewingElle says:

      I trimmed off the seam allowance of the piece that I intended to have on the top. So the stitching line closest to the edge (on the red side) is the marked seam line and the one 12 mm out from it is on the seam allowance. Hope that makes sense. I still haven’t added the elastic even after wearing this jacket for another season. The fabric has good recovery, but I really should do this. Thanks for the reminder!

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