No facings, no interfacing, no lining, no seam or edge finishing, no roll lines, no turn of cloth allowance, no pressing as I sewed.
Not very tailored.
Also a bit too big.
Perhaps I should stick to BurdaStyle patterns. I know how they fit.
The fabric is a double faced wool knit, so I should be able to shrink it by washing, shouldn’t I? That’s what usually happens by mistake.
I washed a 10 x 10 cm square in cold water. Still 10 x 10 cm. I steamed it. Still 10 x 10 cm. I washed it in hot water. Still 10 x 10 cm. I washed it in hot water and ironed it dry with the iron on hot. Still 10 x 10 cm. I poured boiling water on it. Some of the colour came out but it is still 10 x 10 cm. It is not felted at all.
The pattern has seaming on the back
With the collar open, the other “face” of the fabric and the raw edge construction is on display.
And it is reversible.
Pattern: KwikSew 3827
Size: XS-S-M-L-XL. I made an M (bust 94-98 cm, waist 70-74 cm).
From flat pattern measurements through the bust, and from the sizing chart, I thought a an M would fit. I should have also measured through the shoulders. Perhaps the stretch of the knit fabric hasn’t helped either. Perhaps KwikSew patterns run big?
A double faced wool knit, proved now to be utterly and completely machine washable. Soft and warm with good stretch and recovery. Not felted or even pilled after soaking in boiling water.
Changes I made to the pattern:
I didn’t face or interface the collar or front, line the jacket or add pockets.
On the front and back vertical seams and the shoulder seams I used a lapped seam construction and topstitched 6 mm away from the edge as well as 2 mm from the edge. This allowed some of the red to show through on the grey side and vice versa.
For the sleeves, armscye and collar, I stitched the red sides together and then trimmed back one of the seam allowances, folded the other over the top, stitched it down 6 mm from the seam line and then trimmed off the excess. It’s a neat topstitched look on the red side, and raw edged look on the grey side.
I didn’t trim of the allowances for the sleeve and jacket hems or the top of the collar, but stitched 2 and 6 mm from the edge. This means the sleeves are a bit long, but can be turned up to show the other side.
I should try this pattern again in a woven and make it up”properly”. It has potential.
I should wear this jacket over top of lots of other layers and with a warm hat. Then it will make more sense. Perhaps next winter. Spring is just around the corner.