Weddings are a great excuse for a new dress.
Felicity had liked style 110 in the May 2010 Burda Style since the magazine arrived in our letterbox, and now we had an excellent reason to make it up.
The style has lots of nice details: pintucked bodice and fluttery sleeves (more than intended by the pattern drafter- more about that below)
The bodice has a fairly low scooped and wide neckline. Fashion tape was useful here to keep the great aunts and uncles calm and a strapless bra stopped the worry about straps showing.
Felicity added a vintage scarf in just the right colour (of my mums) as a belt. Lucky I keep all that stuff!
Pattern: BurdaStyle 05-2010-110B
Size: 17-21, I made a 19 (the petite version of a 38) with a 15 mm FBA.
Fabric: Cotton voile from Spotlight lined with white cotton batiste
Changes I made:
The major change was unintentional. I misread the pattern piece number for the sleeves (4) for the number to cut out (should have been 2).
It was sort of clear that the straight part had to be sewn onto the back bodice, but how was I supposed to sew the two sleeve pieces together to make one sleeve? (wish I had consulted the instructions a bit better!).
I sewed the smaller concave curved edges together (and very nicely too with French seams).
This gave an exuberantly fluttery sleeve, but I had to subsequently trim some of the straight edge off the front side of the sleeve piece to get it to fit the neck line.
The sleeve still extended a little past the neckline down the edge of the first tuck. I’ve drawn the edge in below, in yellow
For the record, this is how it should have gone together:
The other change was to move the side zip to the right (Felicity is a leftie).
I used French seams for all seams except between the bodice and the skirt. I finished the sleeve and skirt hems with a rolled hem.
All four sewing machines in my fleet were used for this project:
- Bernina for the bulk of the sewing
- Elna overlocker to finish the bodice skirt joining seam
- The other Elna for the invisible zip insertion (still don’t have the Bernina foot for that)
- Janome for the rolled hem (same).
At least the machines are not going to seize up from lack of use!