Grab your sunglasses.
I might have put this dress on, but it is definitely wearing me! Even my red patent platform wedges are playing second fiddle.
I’m glad this project is finished.
I lengthened the top to knee length, pegging back in from the hips, added horizontal bust darts, shortened the bodice back, took it in at the waist and made a significant swayback adjustment.
It would have been easier to draft from scratch.
The under dress is made from a medium to heavy weight white cotton knit with good four-way stretch and excellent recovery. It’s almost like spanz but not as stretchy.
The red and white stripy layer is medium weight four-way stretch cotton knit. With both these layers, the dress is quite robust and will be perfect for cooler summer evenings or spring.
Cutting out and construction:
For the dress under layer and the sleeves, the grain line was as normal: on centre front and centre back. For the panels the grain line was perpendicular to the bottom of each panel; so the stripes lined up with the panel hem lines.
I mirrored the front panels on the back.
All the panels were cut out with a 4 cm hem (two stripes worth, except the bottom layer with a 6 cm hem- three stripes worth) and with a 5 cm extension to the top of each panel (except the first bodice panel because it had shoulder seams). All the hems were sewn with a double needle.
There was lots of needle changing and rethreading for this project!
The fabric was delightfully compliant and the double needle hems didn’t buckle or bulge.
This is not my usual experience…
I stabilized the neck edge of the white under dress with Vilene bias tape and then sewed the side and shoulder seams of the white under dress and the side and shoulder seams of the top bodice panel.
After hemming the top bodice panel I stitched the under dress and the striped top bodice panel together at the neckline, wrong side of under dress to right side of striped bodice panel. Clipped, turned and pressed: the neck complete.
The armscyes were basted together.
Then the next panel was sewn together at the side seams, hemmed and the sewn onto the white under dress, 5 cm under the hem of the piece above it. And so on..
You can see how the panels overlay in this side view and there’s some in progress shots on the previous post.
For the bottom hem, I cut the white under dress to the final length I wanted and then wrapped the stripy fabric around it to the underside before using the double needle through all three layers. The final panel piece was therefore attached to the white under dress at the top of its panel and at the bottom. I didn’t want the thickness of two separate hems.
The sleeves were constructed regularly and had a 6 cm double needle hem. I lined up the stripes for the hem at the sleeve length I wanted but didn’t think about how the stripe on the sleeve head might align with the bodice. Luckily, one side looks almost as though I planned the alignment…
He who Cooks was right: navy and white would’ve looked good too: