And the photoshoot was a lot of fun
Pattern: Burdastyle (12-2012-141)
Size: 34-42, I made a 42 with some alterations (sway back, sloping shoulder, narrower back)
Changes I made:
The fit alterations were my normal 1 cm swayback alteration plus an adjustment for sloping shoulders and removing a little width through the back by continuing the back darts up higher ( in blue below).
The fit through the back is okay, but I could have probably widened the darts as well as lengthen them. Gridlock had more spring and stretch than the muslin in my toile.
The style change was to lower the neck, but keep an oval shape to it to mirror the faux jacket detail at the waist.
I also drafted a lining for the bodice so that the overlap (to give the faux jacket effect) was removed as was the curved bit for the buttons.
I guess those tucks are rotated bust darts.
One new construction technique I tried with this garment was Gertie’s method for setting in a tailored sleeve.
I used a bias strip of cotton, not a bias strip of horse hair canvas that Gertie uses, but the effect is the same in terms of easing. I guess the canvas would give you a sleeve head as well.
Look, no puckers!
I found the perfect fifties button, and used vintage thread (my grandmothers) to sew it on.
I love my secret touches of red too.