Back to regular programming; fitted dresses!
(I will try to post a photo of the unfitted red dress on a real person soon, I just need to line up a few things…)
Pattern: Vogue 8902
Size: 6-22, with A to D cup bodice pieces; I made a 14 with a B cup.
I wear a C cup, but Vogue said the difference between my high bust and bust put me into a B cup for this pattern. I’m not convinced this was right as the bodice is very fitted and firm, although not uncomfortable. Perhaps I should try again with the C cup bodice piece.
I also made my normal sway back adjustment, which is why the vertical stripes on the skirt don’t run down the centre back (but the hem line lines up with the horizontal stripes!).
I flat patterned measured for the hips but didn’t do the math correctly; I graded out to a ’15’ over the hips but should have gone out to the 16. Those wrinkles in the fabric tell the story! Lucky that Vogue has 5/8th inch seam allowance; I used it all.
Fabric: Both fabrics are cotton and the dress is fully lined in a cream cotton batiste. The red striped fabric on the sleeves and midriff inserts is a stretch cotton (Felicity has a skirt made out of this) and the cream and red window pane check is non stretch. The windowpane print is from IKEA and its a heavy weight. It’s probably meant for tablecloths and cushions.
Changes I made:
The short sleeves in this pattern are gathered at the neck while the long sleeves have a dart. The lining for both long and short sleeves has a dart. I thought the dart would work better with my fabric so that’s what I used.
My bodice pieces are not exactly on the bias. This is because the check is not square: 9.5 cm long and 10 wide. So I ‘redrew’ the bias through the corners of my ‘squares’. This put the bias off by a few degrees but meant the stripes matched up beautifully on the bodice.
I like this dress, but despite its name, it’s close fit means it’s not really suitable for picnic-ing.
Eating and lolling about? I need a ponte version for that!
EDITED TO ADD:
There have been a few questions about how I did the plaid matching. I didn’t really explain. Now I don’t need to because the fabulous Oonaballoona from Kalkatroona has an excellent blog post about how she does it. I do it the same as her.
The ‘secret’? Pins and marker pens for your pattern pieces.
Go read Oona’s post, and drool over her lovely creations and enjoy her joyful (aka crazy but fun) writing.