I think she likes it…
I like it too.
It looks great and it feels wonderful.
The fit is good too
Perhaps a bit big through the shoulders and back (but that means it fits me too… not that this was planned!)
You can just see the grey marl ponte under sleeves in the picture above.
I used the same ponte to attach the toggle buttons.
So far everyone has wondered why I didn’t use black leather. Clearly, matching the under sleeves is not being noticed!
I’ve never made anything with toggle buttons before and no-one in the house has anything with toggles for me to copy, so there was some experimenting.
I played around with bits of the ponte and the coat on Eliza the dressmaking dummy. Then I went shopping with a square of ponte and the coat.
Adelaide Arcade’s Button Bar came through again.
I tried quite a few toggles and buttons in the shop and settled on some lovely shiny black parallelogram buttons. Yes I am a math nerd as well as a sewing nerd.
The Button Bar didn’t have black cord so I went to Spotlight. They didn’t have any cord the right weight either, but they did have black soutache braid. Soutache braid came home with me. (So did some Vogue patterns. Oops. But, $5 per pattern, they needed rescuing, right?)
Twenty squares of ponte were cut out.
I reinforced ten with fusible interfacing and then made keyhole button holes in them.
The other ten had cords attached to them, 5 with the toggles and five just as loops. These were my base layers.
The cords were threaded through the buttons holes, and then the two layers sewn together with edge stitching. The edges are raw, but ponte doesn’t fray.
I closed up the buttonholes with bar tacking close to the braid.
(whoa, that flash is bright!)
That meant the underside had two lots of bar tacking; one to attach the braid, and the other from closing the button hole.
I really didn’t know what I was doing here. I was on a roll though, and didn’t want to stop and consult google. Please pipe up with the right way to do this!
My five toggle and loop pairs were then sewn onto the coat.
I put the first pair on at the bust apex, the next at the neck and then used this spacing for the other three pairs.
I think I will tack the cords down to the edges of the ponte squares. They look a bit too dangly like this. What do you think?
Size: 20 (petite 40) with a 3 cm FBA (to adjust for a DD cup). This added 3 cm width on each side, so I angled the side seam back in to the waist rather than having a vertical bust dart that went all the way to the bottom hem.
Fabric: Faux fur outer, main body lined with lightweight very stretchy knit, both from Gay Naffines most recent sale, ponte under sleeves also from Gay some years ago, and a poly satin python print sleeve lining from the stash. Collar ‘interfaced’ with shirting fabric from Turin.
There are pockets! Fur one side and that soft knit lining the other. Lovely and soft and cuddly.
The daffodil yellow skirt is new too, but this post is already too long.
Thanks for reading.