Crop top or Formal dress muslin #1

I hope you’re not sick of reading about my WIPs (works in progress). This time its Felicity’s Formal dress: BurdaStyle 12/2013 #130

Whilst going through my fabric stash for something else, Felicity spied this polyester woven and wanted to know why it couldn’t be used for her Formal dress.

It’s certainly not the jacquard that the pattern calls for, but it does have some body. Perhaps?

I had to trial the alterations I’d made to the bodice of the pattern, so rather than using something stiff from the stash, I choose a softer drapier fabric, just to get a feel for how a non jacquard might work.

[Felicity has a head cold and is having a bad hair day. So her lovely face is not gracing the blog today!]

I think a softer fabric is going to work. After I get the fit right.

That extra fabric pooling between the bust and the shoulder at the armscye needs to go.

I need to move the apex of the dart darts back a bit. I tried rotating the darts up into the neck tucks, but it made the extra fabric pooling between the bust and the shoulder even worse than it is here. A dart will be less obvious in a pattern fabric.

The extra fabric between the shoulder and the bust is not so obvious from the side, but that bust apex needs to shrink

Arrgh, and now I see that the side seam is not vertical…

The back looks ok.

The over bodice will only be closed at the neck on the dress, but a second closure on the crop top makes it more wearable for Felicity (yes, she sees it as a wearable garment! not just a muslin!)

How to get rid of the fabric pooling?

A horizontal tuck above the bust looks like it might work. This is an alteration I often need to do for Felicity.

It does smooth things out. But now I have to both shorten and move the bust dart down!

What do you think? Other alterations needed? Leave the polyester woven in the stash and go look for a jacquard?

25 thoughts on “Crop top or Formal dress muslin #1

  1. It is hard to read from the photo, but check that the darts are pointing to her bust point. They look high. I love this pattern for a young girl.

  2. Sorry I can’t help you with fitting but I love the fabric Felicity has chosen. I have also loved this pattern so I’m very interested to see it made up. Good luck.

  3. I’d keep going it’s looking great, did taking out that excess fabric at the front straighten up the side seam? It looks like you now need to lengthen it an inch or so.
    This fabric might struggle to hold the shape of the skirt, I had the same problem choose a poly instead of a cotton for a vogue dress, so I interlined it with cotton and it held its shape better.
    (PS I’m no expert on fitting issues, but I’ve read a book!)

  4. Check the armhole. It might need a little adjusting. In the last picture it looks like it might be a little tight, but that could just be the picture 🙂 Overall, it looks great!

    1. Yes I am a bit concerned about that too, but Felicity says it’s not too tight, and it looks okay when she raises her arm. Perhaps I should deepen it anyway?

  5. Horizontal tuck plus revised bust dart does seem to look like just the ticket. I reckon the material would be ace and a great way to keep this lovely style as fresh as your young lady. Anything more reserved might punt it into “too classic” territory.

  6. I’m afraid I can’t help on the alteration front. But as far as the fabric is concerned: I do remember correctly that bodice and skirt are connected via a second layer under the over-bodice (as it were)? I wonder if a drapey woven isn’t too floppy so that that construction detail isn’t visible any more. As it’s quite an architectural pattern I think it might need a fabric with a crisper hand. Although I do agree it would look younger in a patterned fabric rather than the very somber original black.

    1. Yes, you’re right about the construction. The under bodice is very fitting and a stretch fabric is recommended. It would have to have no vertical stretch, methinks, otherwise the weight of the attached skirt could pull everything out of shape.
      I’m contemplating underlining with organza. That should add a bit more structure.

  7. I’m not a fit alterations expert either but it looks to me as though you’ve worked out the right alterations yourself. I’m definitely filing this pattern away for my girls as a future formal dress option – there is so much to like about it! Looking forward to seeing the finished dress.

    1. I love this pattern too and I’m so glad I get to sew styles I love that don’t suit me or work with my lifestyle. Lucky you: two girls to sew for!

  8. I love Felicity’s choice of fabric – there’s a cape overlay-type dress featured on the Fug Girls site at the moment – it has black bands down the centre back skirt part – might help add some stiffness and structure…

        1. The LK Bennett dress on what Kate wore is fabulous. And I can easily incorporate those ideas into felicity’s dress, if she approves. Thanks so much for pointing it out.
          It’s the salmie layer effect dress, for anyone else following along

  9. It’s a gorgeous pattern. Hope the alterations go well . Do you have much time for this ? My middle daughter asked me to make her dress 4 weeks before the event.

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