Thank you for your lovely comments on my last post about this coat. I’m delighted with it!
One side view..
and the other.
Now, the promised construction details.
A major decision with this project was which side of the fabric to use. My initial thought was ‘how convenient that lamination is, because I won’t need to interface’.
Then I looked more closely. It was sort of weirdly beautifully. Shiny, and crinkled in a way that mirrored the boucle underneath. And a glorious deep chocolate colour.
Liz had told me it was an Oscar de la Renta runway fabric, and the Mood fabrics printout with the fabric said that too. A happy hour or so on Style.com located the runway photos. Oscar had used the laminated side on the outside. That decided it!
It also looked like he might have used lapped seams. I liked that idea too.
I decided which seams were going to be lapped and then trimmed the seam allowance of the side that would end up on top. Sticky tape was my friend for marking the seam allowance on the piece that was going to end up underneath
I pinned the top piece flush against my sticky tape line…
and stitched away.
Sticky tape was even useful as a guide for the vent overlap stitching line
I’m pleased with how the lapped seams turned out. They emphasize the seams lines, and add a slight edgy moto jacket vibe to the coat.
I didn’t lap all the seams. The waist and the side seams were stitched conventionally and then the seam allowance secured on the inside with another line of stitching
The extra lines of stitching on the outside are a nice feature
I love the tweedy inside.
Here it is inside out. As you can see, I sewed the collar onto the neck wrong sides together, i.e. opposite to the other seams, because the inside shows with the collar and lapels folded out when its worn.
I wondered if I might need to purchase a walking foot or a Teflon foot for this project, but the normal foot seemed to deal with the laminated side just fine.
And , on a fabric note, I noticed while window shopping on the Mood website for other Oscar de la Renta fabrics (and why wouldn’t I? This experience was so lovely) that this fabric is available again. Not affiliated, just a happy sewist.
Back to construction stuff.
Burda has the buttons a smidge higher than the waist seam, but I ignored this style direction.
I placed mine on the waist because then I could make easy peasy inseam button holes.
I love these buttons
I added a snap closure to hold the collar in place…
I don’t like it so much with the collar opening up to the waist.
I’m delighted to have this coat in the wardrobe, snuggling up here with my husband’s coats.
This was fun project. This very special fabric meant there was no hair canvas, interfacing, facing or linings, and no hems or special seam finishes. A truly anti-tailored coat.