Is it Winter or is it Spring? BurdaStyle 01/2016 #115 and friends

It’s that changeable time of early Spring. One day is wonderfully sunny and legs and arms are barred. There’s a promise of summer in the air.

The next day its back to grey skies and rain and 15°C as the maximum. All those winter clothes that you are tired of wearing have to come out again.

My last lot of sewing has been a bit like that. Two tops, both in similar styles pattern wise, but worlds apart in expression.

Exhibit A. Winter. Made in a viscose knit from Gay Naffine

Exhibit B. Yeah! Spring! Made in a rayon challis from Britix Fabrics, San Francisco

Both have bows at the neck and full sleeves gathered into a cuff, and both are prints, but one is so much lighter in spirit than the other!

Lets talk about Winter.

Pattern: Burda World of Fashion 9/2007 #101

This is an ancient pattern in terms of the internet sewing community. Nine years old! It’s a BurdaStyle pattern before downloadable PDFs and when BurdaStyle was still called Burda World of Fashion. There’s not even an electronic line drawing!

It’s designed for knits, but I know others in the sewing blogosphere have made it in wovens too

I made this up first forever ago in a synthetic navy knit. It really is forever ago because it predates me posting to Pattern Review. And I started doing that in 2010. It’s still one of my go to work tops. The fabric is amazing. Indestructible.

I’ve been promising myself to make this pattern up again, but the indestructible nature of my first one had conspired against me. No longer!

This pattern has some nice details

A deep V neck with a tie and gathers from the center rather than side bust darts,

and soft gathered sleeves. I added a cuff rather than using elastic. I don’t love elasticized cuffs on sleeves.

I love this fabric, despite its wintery tones. It has silhouette peacocks and a building that looks like Sacre Couer! And birdcages. What’s not to love?

Here’s a back view to show off that fabric a bit more.

Lets digress a bit about the skirt. This is a recent make too. It’s the last of some boiled wool in my stash. This is the third skirt I’ve made from the piece. Felicity has one too, and I used to have another one too. There was a laundry misadventure with that first one.

The notable points about the skirt are the exposed zip, with its zipper guard from novelty fabric

and the lack of a proper hem or seam finishes. Boiled wool. Great stuff for not fraying.

Its lined, and the exposed zip was reinforced with fusible interfacing. I used Tany’s great tutorial for inserting the zip.

Lets move to Spring. Some skirt, different top.

Also, sunlight!

This is from one of this years issue of BurdaStyle. It’s the 01/2016 #115 dress shortened to top length and without the drawstrings on the yokes.Thanks to M of Nonsuch for doing all the tracing work for me. She made a delightful silk version which has sadly not yet made it onto her blog..

EDITED TO ADD  Now blogged at Nonsuch. And with a blog title of One for SewingElle!

The tie neck is lovely and the sleeves are fabulous.

And while they might look ridiculous, the drafting is superb. You really do have to try very hard to drape them through your salad dressing or in the dishwater in the sink.

It must be something to do with their length (not quite full length) and the pronounced curvature of the bottom of the sleeve.

So, my new fruity and floral spring blouse has won my heart, but I think I’ll be very glad of my new winter top, when its cold again.

12 thoughts on “Is it Winter or is it Spring? BurdaStyle 01/2016 #115 and friends

  1. I love these – especially the Spring version. I can’t see that you included the weird drawstring thingys on the shoulders though. very sensible. I guess I’ll post mine so you can see how silly they are …

    1. I didn’t include them. The shoulders are a little wide. Perhaps this could be sorted if the drawstrings are able to actually be drawn up
      Which I’m not confident they could be. They seem more decorative.

  2. I have that 2007 issue! Someone gifted me with several back issues of Burda WOF and I’m amazed at how relevant some of the items are.

    I love the winter look THE MOST. Just gorgeous. And boiled wool – so fun to sew!

    1. Old Burdas are surprisingly fresh. Or at least they seem that way to me. My resident teenage fashion critic probably needs
      consulting on that question!
      That issue is a particularly good one. Hope you make and enjoy some of the patterns!

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