Burda 06/2013 #138 is another potential dress pattern for my delightful yellow roses fabric.
My trial version is in a souvenir fabric featuring street scenes from Paris. It’s a light weight ponte, so a good match in terms of drapiness and body to my yellow roses fabric.
It’s a lovely pattern and I like the resultant dress, but I’m not sold on this as the right pattern for the yellow roses.
This is good pattern for fabric with a large print that you don’t want to break up with lots of seams. My fabric was 150 cm wide with the two different panels across the width. The panels almost flow from one to another but not exactly. A bit like looking up a street towards the Eiffel Tower in one panel and then down the street in the opposite direction.
One panel needed to be on the front and the other on the back. Putting the Eiffel Tower on the front seemed like it had too much potential for looking like an unintended phallic symbol (maybe I was overthinking it…).
So, the decision was simple – the Eiffel Tower on the back
The bodice pieces with their integrated sleeves couldn’t both fit across the width of the fabric either, even if offset or one of them was placed upside down. A centre back seam, some fabric tetris and I solved that fabric meterage constraint.
I’d recommend a full centre back seam and zip in a simpler fabric, or one that wasn’t impacted by seaming. Eiffel Tower I’m looking at you! I know side zips work, but I really prefer to step into a dress and zip up though the back.
My side zip went in a bit lower than drafted, so a button and loop was added at the top.
This is a size 46 bust and waist out to a size 48 hips with a 1 cm forward should eradjustment and 2 cm petite adjustment above the bust. I think the petite adjustment was not needed when I look of where that bust dart ends.
The hemline is ever so slightly lower in the back than the front. I hemmed the dress 1.5 cm shorter than drafted.
The neckline is quite wide. I added my normal 1 cm seam allowance but sewed the facing on with a 5 mm seam allowance.
It also gapes a bit. Not sure what fit issue that might be – a need for a FBA? narrow shoulders (I’ve never had a large bust or narrow shoulders in my life..) I do wonder whether those drag lines are due as much to poor posture as they are to fit.
I don’t feel any closer to a pattern I’m happy to use for my special fabric but I do have two new frocks in my wardrobe.
Perhaps I need to audition some coat patterns?