Red Papercut Tide dress

I’ve admired the Papercut patterns Tide dress ever since it was released (as the Kobe dress). Such a clever but simple design with the pleating and cut out at the back.

Tide Dress and Top - The Foldline

In a recent sale I succumbed and purchased it. And then spent several happy hours looking though my fabric stash for suitable fabrics. Of course I found several.

And that lead me down the rabbit hole of what else could I make to go with that fabric if I made it up as the dress or the top version of the pattern. Some of you probably know exactly what I’m talking about. Virtual wardrobe sewing. Hours of Fun.

Then I did some serious reading of reviews. Several sewists commented on the pleating at the back creating a weight imbalance that tended to pull the dress to the back. Perhaps I shouldn’t proceed? But I was already invested in this project because of the Hours of Fun noted above.

To reduce potential disappointment I used a fabric I’d acquired from the recent @adeladiesewists fabric swap. Don’t get me wrong. I really like this fabric. But it hasn’t been in my stash for long, so I’m not strongly attached to it, and it was free. It is still lovely, though. Nice drape, great colours and an interesting print. I’m guessing it’s a viscose crepe. Thanks Georgie Barker!

And then the question. What size am I in this pattern line? I’ve only ever made the Rise and Fall Turtlenecks from Papercut and they are knit patterns. This one apparently runs big, according to reviews.

I went for size 6 based on finished garment measurements. This was a mistake. I could have easily sized down.

The shoulders were too wide and the armscyes are very generous.

I have somewhat compensated by overlapping the back neck more than the designer intended and adding a tuck to the front neck.

And all those reviews were right – it does pull to the back. Quite annoying to wear. But also lovely and cool for the work Christmas party – which was outside on a 35oC day. The joys of Christmas in Australia!

Refashion or donation is its most likely fate. Or perhaps a weight at the base of the neck at the front under the tuck? Or a stay attached to my bra? I’ll report back!

If nothing else, I’ve once again proved that sewing with lovely fabric is always a pleasure even if the final result is not quite right.

EDITED to add my pulling-to-the-back solution – a tablecloth weight attached to the tuck on the inside at the base of the front neckline. Works perfectly!

17 thoughts on “Red Papercut Tide dress

  1. What a shame it pulls to the back. I love the fabric… it’s really lovely. I think it was a great idea to put the pleat on the front. I hope you work a way to wear it as it looks great on.

  2. It looks lovely on you! I like the idea of a stay in front. I read somewhere (gorgeous fabrics blog?) of making a small “bag” attached to the v on the dress with a small coin. It’s on ribbon or a thread chain (think serger thread chain), and tucked under the bridge of the bra, with the coin just below. This has the effect of holding the fabric to the body so you don’t flash everyone when you lean over. Color is great on you btw.

  3. The color looks really good on you, and the type of fabric is also just right. It doesn’t seem too big to me, so your adjustments worked well and also added style. In fact, it’s one of my favorites on you! A lot of patterns seem to pull the the necks back on me. I wonder if an adjustment at the shoulder line would help, or would the neck end up pulling back even more?

  4. love the clever hacks to get this to work! I understand your disappointment though – the pics of the Tide Dress make the back look quite different.

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