Tessuti’s Bella dress pattern is an old favourite. Search through my blog – you’ll see I’ve made several Bella’s for myself and Felicity.
But I am no longer the same size thanks to having so many birthdays that I’ve hit menopause. So it was time to test another size.

Version one was in a red rayon fabric from my stash but originally from a designer fabric sale. It’s an odd fabric. Gorgeous colour but has a very dry hand and is prone to creasing.

I traced off and made a size 16 with shortened sleeves.

It was too big through the shoulders – the only bit that really needs to fit.


So I added a 1.5 cm tuck to the centre front,going down 15 cm, to remove 3 cm of the excess fabric through neck through the bust.

This sort off worked.

Although the armscyes are too low – I really should not be able to lift up the hem this much when I raise my arm! Another pointer to the size being wrong

Whatever. I have a dress I can wear. And the colour is still gorgeous despite the fit!

So for my next version I went down a size to size 14.
This one is made in an embroidered wool blend purchased on holiday in Leicester.

Souvenir fabric!

I didn’t have a lot of fabric but was pleased that I had enough to be able to line up the embroidered motifs reasonably well.

It’s lined with a polyester galaxy print which I bought as a roll end several years ago for a fabulous price because it was so last years.

Now so dated after sitting in my stash that’s it’s best used as a lining.

The facing is a grey linen. Because I thought the wool might be itchy. But it was a bit of an afterthought once I realised that lining right to the edge with the galaxy print might not be such a great idea. So I overlocked and stitched it on a top of the lining rather then doing things properly with a seam.

I used a wool 4 cm strip for the pocket openings for the same reason. And also just stitch an overlocked strip on top of the lining. What can I say? Consistently slapdash!

I used a wide stain bias from the stash for the hems -and the stitching just disappeared into the wool.

Love it when that happens

So. What do I think about the sizing? This is probably the right size. But the fit is not great. The shoulders are good but it’s a bit tight through the bust whilst being looser through the back.

And of course everywhere else is fine because the style is loose everywhere else

Bottom line -I like the dress. I’m not convinced Tessuti’s block works for me. It did work when I was a smaller size. Now, perhaps not so much.
So what other trapeze style dress pattern are out there that I should try? All suggestions most welcome 🙂
I have problems with dartless tops and dresses because if I attempt to accommodate my bust using a larger size, the garment is sometimes too large in other areas. I wondered if a full bust adjustment could made on a dartless pattern. Researched it and found it is possible and it should not affect the overall fit. I love both dresses and especially the second one because of all the sewing extras you included. I saw articles online and on YouTube about creating a fba for this type of pattern.
That’s a really great idea. I wondered if the lack of a bust dart is part of the problem
You did a Great Job on Both of them. Fitting garment is a journey, but you are well on your way . Maybe the FBA could help. Try in on a muslin first you maybe pleasantly surprised!
You’re very kind. I’ve never needed an FBA before. But perhaps that’s what this pattern needs.
Almost you makest me pay attention to fitting! love the fitting hack on the red dress.
You’re fine – your makes always look fabulous
[…] two fabrics were both from the stash. I’ve told you about the red before – it is a woven rayon from a local designer roll end sale in 2014. Almost vintage! It […]
The Tessuti block doesn’t work for me at all. Too many alterations to make it work, I may as well just copy the design and draft from first principles. I love your embroidered wool fabric, so pretty. I’m guessing it is cosy too.
It is lovely and cozy even though it’s quite fine. I was worried the polyester lining might make it sweaty but so far so good