‘Valentino red’ jacket: BurdaStyle 09/2008 #134

I seem to be drawn to Burda’s plus size designs from a decade or more ago.

This jacket is no exception.

I really like its simple lines

from https://burdastyle.ru/vikroyki/yubki/yubka-burda-2008-9-136/

I made it in a RPL bottom weight stretch gabardine from emmaonesock in ‘Valentino red’. Gorgeous colour. It has drape and medium body

I lined it with a polyester satin animal print non stretch woven from the stash.

I didn’t have enough so the sleeves are in a solid black bemberg

Hand sewing the sleeve lining hem whilst admiring my ridiculous pedicure

I did have enough for the pocket bags – and the satin makes them feel great!

I wasn’t sure on sizing so I made up a toile in size 48 and then took 4 cm out in width in total through the body – its probably more like a 46. I added a centre back seam to remove some of the width and adjusted the neck facing accordingly. The smaller back neck seems perfectly fine.

I also took 1 cm of height off the sleeve cap and moved the bust dart up by 2.5 cm. Which was probably a bit too much. The darts are very obvious and a bit pointy in this fabric.

I drafted a back stay with iron-on interfacing. I’ve finally realised that my fancy pants iron that works out what temperature to be depending on the fabric is not the right iron to use for iron-on interfacing – it never gets hot enough. So I used my baby travel/craft iron. Works so much better! Even if its pretty slow because it only fuses a small area at a time. I need to resurrect the standard iron that must still be somewhere in the house

I added raglan shoulder pads – from very deep stash. If my memory is correct they were in a rtw jumper from the nineties – removable through the wonders of velcro. I took the velcro off and tacked them in.

Lots of topstitching – which probably isn’t noticeable to anyone but me – and a nervous moment cutting the buttonholes. I love my chisel, but the first cut is always made with trepidation.

The buttons were from my local independent fabric store – Ferrier Fashion Fabrics. I took my jacket in and auditioned several buttons before setting on black with a thin brass edge. The staff were fully engaged in the ‘auditioning’ – coming up with several alternatives for me to consider! Love it when this happens!

Bottom line – this is a great design and I now have a lovely work jacket

14 thoughts on “‘Valentino red’ jacket: BurdaStyle 09/2008 #134

  1. Beautiful job, and looks great. Burda is very fond of this ‘princess seam with dart’. I have to do the sort of FBA you do for your daughter and it makes the pointy dart outcome even worse. I’ve been put off making lots of patterns because I haven’t managed to solve it yet. If you have ideas please let us know 😬🤩

    • I did wonder if if curved the dart legs in more earlier rather than making it a simple triangle, if that might help. But haven’t gone back and unpicked everything to try that

      • Good thoughts – it might help, especially if you run the dart off to a very acute angle. Would also help if the fabric was very mouldable and could be shaped with a steam iron to get a good curved point. However, I reckon princess line works best for full busts.
        Super jacket and a great colour!

        • Thanks for your great advice. An acute angle – that’s the proper term for what I was trying to say! The fabric isn’t particular mouldable. I should try this pattern again with a boucle.

        • Yes, it’s the offset princess seam that causes the problems. Don’t know what it is called.
          It works fine in knits, I’ve folded out bigger dart on side panel and just eased the extra length added where dart is here.
          I was wondering if you could achieve something similar with woven as both sides of seam are on bias.

  2. Lovely! And just so that you know that I am not copying, I am half way through making up a Valentino flat finish boiled wool in a gorgeous watermelon red!!! Going well so far!

  3. Those are excellent buttonholes indeed! And a nice fit on the sleeves. Burda tends to have an absurdly large sleeve cap, in my experience. Nowadays I just take off a centimeter or more off the top whenever it gives me trouble, like you did–but it used to baffle me.

    I’ve never seen that kind of iron before, it does look fancy. At first I thought the handle was enormous, but I looked it up just now and it appears that the iron portion is tiny instead?

    • It’s a tiny iron – not much bigger than my fist. I presume its for quilters doing very small pieced work.
      I don’t always remove height from Burda sleeves – but I’ll be paying more attention to sleeve caps from now on

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