Striped teal and mustard coat: Burdastyle 09/2008 #133

After the success of the ‘Valentino red’ jacket I was ready to try the other version that Burda offered – full length sleeves, longer length and a stand collar.

from https://burdastyle.ru/vikroyki/zhakety/mekhovoy-zhaket-burda-2008-9-133/

Burda made their version in a fake fur. I had a knit boucle from emmaonesock waiting in my stash to be used.

Same same but different. Maybe? I really loved the boucle but strode in undeterred by possible failure! Like much of my sewing…

Why was I worried? Worked out fine!

I interfaced the yoke, the back, the stand collar, the pocket flaps and around the armscyes as previously but, apart from folding out both the neck and bust darts, treated the knit as if it was a woven.

Upgraded to a standard sized iron for fusing interfacing!

The stand collar seems a bit high for short waisted and short necked me, so I took about 1 cm of the height of the stand collar. It’s still quire substantial.

Loving how my label matches the teal in the fabric

And continuing in the theme of treating the knot like a woven, I lined the coat with a black non stretch woven lining and faced the front edges and neck with a black linen nylon woven.

The facing being in a plain black fabric was mainly because of fabric restrictions. But it was probably a good idea, even if I had enough fabric, because it reduced bulk.

I backed the pocket flaps with this same plain black woven too. For the same reason. the pockets are also in this plain black woven fabric

All the seam edges were overlocked and then hand sewn flat (apart from the armscyes and the pocket openings). I was trying to ensure all the seams remained as flat as possible in this crazy fabric.

Lots of hand sewing love in this garment!

Buttonholes? Don’t be crazy I told myself! Use big snaps instead! But the only big snaps I could access in black were not very black.

My multistep process to cover snaps

So I covered them in my linen nylon facing fabric.

Now they look intentional rather than an afterthought.

Of course I only covered the ‘female’ part of the snaps. The male bits are naked …

Naked male snaps looking more pewter than black

I followed Burda’s advice for their boucle version and cut the yoke and pocket flaps out running the other way. I like it!

I’m calling this one a success.

Gorgeous and snuggly to wear too!

I had quite a bit of success with this pattern collection for 2008. Perhaps I should I make some of the other designs? I particularly like the knit dress.

translated to English form the Russian Burda webpage

Do other sewists make “old” Burda patterns? Or am I just stuck in the recent past?

16 thoughts on “Striped teal and mustard coat: Burdastyle 09/2008 #133

  1. That jacket’s a definite big tick! Excellent handling of the fabric, too.

    Some regard Burda circa 2005-2012ish as a bit of a golden era. I have a small collection from then and recall making some very smart outfits.

  2. Very nice jacket. There is a top from 2009 that I’ve been wanting to make for years. Finally have the right fabric for it but there are other things ahead of it in my sewing queue. Maybe I’ll get to it next year.

  3. That’s some great sewing, boucle is so difficult! I wish it was winter here now, I am melting just looking at it.

    Old Burdas are fabulous. I don’t have a stash like some of you lucky people, but I’ve been henpecking my way through the digital archives of whatever is available, and mostly I am pleased with the older patterns. Except the instructions were even worse than they are nowadays, it seems.

  4. I love the old Burdas, I have hardly traced anything from the new lately. I’m currently making a safari sheath dress #114 from April 2009 in red cotton lycra. I still wanted to make it after all these years. The Russian BS website is often a good source of members’ photos, even of the older styles, you can go onto the magazine page for mags back to at least 2004. More useful than trawling through burdafotoforum.

    Here’s the link to 2008
    http://burdastyle.ru/zhurnaly/2008/

  5. Good to see you are still sewing from the Burdas. That fabric combines beautifully with so many colours, brown and blues I like what you’ve done with the boucle, especially using it on the crossgrain for the yoke and pocket tabs. Does it snag easily? That’s been my main concern with that fabric.

    • It hasn’t snagged yet. But the coloured stripes seem to be woven onto a knitted base. So should be easy to remove snags and pulls by cutting and not leave a hole

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