Yay! Back to ordinary sewing.
I’ve made a top I can wear everyday if I choose to, not something that only get out of the wardrobe once a year for an art gallery exhibition opening or a black tie event.
This lovely top is from a designer in Barcelona: Paco Peralta. I’m not sure if he is still trading in Etsy but I knew quite a few sewing bloggers have his patterns
I’ve had the pattern for a while. Lots of sewing bloggers before me have already made this top. I’m not an early adopter it seems (much worse than you Gail!)
Size: S-XL (bust 80 to 104 cm). I traced off between L and XL based on my bust measurement being in the middle of sizes L and XL. Flat pattern measurements suggested a L would be ok, but experience told me that its easier to take out width than put it in.
After construction I took the side seams in by 1.5 cm at the waist, grading from the armscye to the hip. I could have cut out an L.
The top is loose, but this seems to suit the style, and I don’t need a zip to get it on.
I also added an extra 6 cm to length. This is probably a little bit too much. The bottom of the top shows when I wear it with one of my jackets. The next version will be made about 2 cm shorter!
Fabric: Cotton voile. The cowl would work better with a drapier fabric, but it’s okay in this too.
This fabric was a large remnant from a previous blouse and skirt combination made before blogging or Pattern Review. It was purchased on my first visit to Cleggs in Melbourne about ten years ago. I’ve loved this fabric for a long time, even after wearing and wearing my first makes from it. You know how sometimes you get sick of a print after you’ve worn it a lot? Didn’t happen with this one. I still love it! I have a white skirt under construction that this is going to look great with too.
About the pattern:
The bias insert for the cowl is clever. You get lovely draping in this section without the disadvantage of shifty bias in the rest of the garment. The lovely insert detail is perfectly camouflaged by the busy print in my fabric, so I’m pointing it out for you here!
There is a lot of ease drafted into the back shoulder (I don’t think I cut it out wrong?)
These pieces needed to be sewn together.
The busy print and the gorgeousness of cotton meant that lots of steaming hid the easing, but this would be more obvious in a solid. Next time I’ll either add a small dart, or trim the extra off.
Paco’s instructions (here and here, and thanks to Google translate and photos!) for the sewing order of the cowl and back neck facing are useful. I sort of followed them, plus the way Vogue instruct for the cowl for dress 1250.
After sewing the back facing onto the back neck, the shoulder seam is stitched together with the neck facing to the cowl facing,
then the back neck facing is turned back down, in line with the shoulder seam and, after turning the cowl facing to the back too, stitching over the same line of stitching (where the orange pins are)
trimmed and overlocked,
then the cowl facing flipped back to the front.
Here’s how it looks turned over to the right side
It makes for a nice finish, even if the shoulder seam allowance ends up ironed to the front rather than the back.
The armscyes are finished with bias strips, before sewing the side seams:
First step after sewing on the strips was trimming the edges (I like using my pinking shears!),
then I flipped the strips over and stitched the edge of the bias strip down from the wrong side.
A simple and neat finish is easily achieved.
It’s a very comfortable top to wear and will be great for hot summer weather. I see some more in my future…that is, after I clear my ridiculously long to sew list…