Are you a muslin (toile) maker? Or do you get straight into the pattern with your fabric and fit as you go (or, like me, hope for the best)?
Felicity’s Big Winter Coat, 2011
I have made muslins in the past, but not very many (like, all of two or three in the last six years…)
This last month, however, I’ve made two muslins, or “wearable muslins”. And not completely intentionally.
What is she talking about, you think, looking at this image. Looks like a nice dress, and those diagonal drag lines are probably just from her hand in the pocket. Perhaps a bit tight through the bust? Still, on balance, it looks okay, and the style lines are lovely. Nice fabric too. Looks like a lace overlay.
Yes, yes, yes.
But, wait. You haven’t seen the back.
We have a classic case of bad fabric pooling at the backwaist. This is after trying to fix it too by retrofitting a(nother) sway back (I’d already made that adjustment whilst tracing the pattern off).
This dress pattern is from an Easy Burda Autumn/Winter 2014 BurdaStyle Special: Dress 4e, minus the neck band and faux pocket flaps
The “lace” overlay is a rayon, polyester linen blend, bought from Gay Naffine’s sales some years back.
I underlined it with a self striped stretch cotton and used this same fabric for the plain central sections. I underlined the central section too, with a lighter weight stretch cotton.
The inside view
I know. I should’ve made a muslin first. Now all I’ve got is a nicely sewn wearable muslin using lovely fabrics.
I didn’t want to make that mistake again, so, for my next dress, I trialed the pattern first in a polyester twill from deep in the stash.
And this one turned out almost completely wearable!
This is Burdastyle 09/2012 #134
No puddling at the back waist on this one, although there is some extra fabric under the arms.
You can see it at the front too: a bit saggy above the waist under my bust, and side on as well.
Apart from this, I’m pleased with the fit.
I might even wear it like it is, with its blue exposed zip (it was close at hand and the right size, and this was just a muslin), obvious machine hem (I needed to check hem length with heels, and this is a muslin after all), and slightly stretched out neckline (no staystitching, see previous comment).
This pattern was muslined for this fabric:
I am very happy with the pattern and still think it would work, but I can’t get Ruth of corecouture‘s, suggestion of Vogue 9021 out of my mind.
Then Gabrielle of UpSewLate recently made a beautiful version.
I might not have enough fabric for those big sleeves though… so still thinking about it. If Spotlight have a $5 Vogue sale anytime soon, you know what I’ll be buying!
Meanwhile, I have another muslin to make.
Formal Dress for Felicity
Felicity’s school has a formal in May for the Year 11 students as well as the Year 12’s. Actually, there is one formal but both years go, so that means a formal for two years. She has relatively low frock expectations for Formal Number One. Phew.
BurdaStyle 12/2013 #130 is her current plan. It’s a German designer pattern, Talbot Runhof, that doesn’t appear to be available as a pdf download.
We don’t have any fabric yet. It seems there is nothing suitable in my very large stash!
I will need to add a FBA to the bodice and the bodice overlay. I guess I will rotate the horizontal side dart I add into the neck tucks and the vertical dart into the side seam for the overlay. Any advice will be gratefully received!
It will also be interesting to see how this style works when it’s on a body that needs a FBA. Yay for muslining!
Yes, I have learnt my lesson.