The Big Winter Coat Finale

Here it is, in the fading late afternoon winter sun.

Everything is done, apart from taking it to the drycleaners for a professional pressing (I hope that’s why the hem doesn’t look perfectly smooth yet..)

This has been a long project and I’ve learnt a lot about tailoring. I even know how to bag out the hem now! Sherry’s sew-along was excellent. It’s all still up on her blog and I highly recommend her instructions to you.

I am very happy with everything about this coat. Look at the sleeve heads.

Aren’t they wonderful?

I like the metal zips on the sleeve vents too.

The outer fabric was delightful to sew with and the only downside was that two interfaced layers of it at the front made it too thick to make button holes.

So there are snaps instead.

Technical details

This was a long project and there are several blog posts already about the process, but I’ll do a summary here for completeness.

Pattern: Burdastyle 11-2007-115

Pattern sizing: European size 40 with 3 cm taken out of the centre back to fit Felicity better

Fabrics and Notions:

The outer fashion fabric was a wool mohair blend in a heavy weight purchased with this project in mind in Paris this March. It took up so much room in my suitcase (think of a small rug), I had to buy another suitcase by the end of the trip. Nothing to do with the other stuff I bought of course.

The lining was a mid to thick weight polyester, probably intended for evening wear, and a nice weight for this heavy coat.

The interfacing was a woven iron on interfacing , I think its Armo Weft, or something similar. It is heavier than the Whisper Weft I have just recently bought (that’s how I know its Whisper Weft!) but similar in its hand. It looks exactly like the interfacing on Sherry’s blog.

The zips for the sleeve vents were metal jeans zips- silvery teeth and zip pull with navy tape.

The shoulder pads were from my local fabric shop, Ferrier Fashion Fabrics and reasonably thin (7 mm), multilayered and shaped differently in front than to the back. Again, just like Sherry recommended.

I couldn’t find pre cut sleeve head wadding, so I cut my own out of some fluffy wadding I had in the stash.

Changes I made to the pattern:

I didn’t add the zips to the inseam pockets. Being metal, I thought they would be a bit cold and might snag on other garments. I also thought making this coat would be challenging enough without adding zips to the pockets.

I didn’t make buttonholes, instead I used large (18 mm) snaps underneath big (33 mm) buttons.

The other changes I made were tailoring ones as per Sherry’s instruction: added turn of cloth to the upper collar, cut the undercollar in two pieces on the bias, added turn of cloth to the facing, drafted all the lining pieces separately with additional ease in the sleeves, added interfacing to all the hems, around the armscye and the shoulders, added extra interfacing to the collar stand part of the undercollar, added interfacing to the roll line of the lapels, added sleeve headings, and perhaps some other stuff… All the details and instructions for this are on Sherry’s blog.

Conclusion: One very happy seamstress.

The only thing that would have made this better would be to have finished it at the beginning of winter, not the end. Felicity will still get some wear out of it this winter ( I hope!) and it should still fit her next year. Otherwise, her younger cousins are going to get very lucky..

10 thoughts on “The Big Winter Coat Finale

  1. Wow, what an accomplishment :-). You must be very proud of yourself, and justifiably so. It looks very good, and very professional.
    I wouldn’t put metal zips on pocket openings – skin gets tender when it’s very cold. And it could snag knit gloves. Plastic maybe, but metal does look much better.

  2. Beautiful work – the sleeve head is just perfect! You really did that sewalong proud, picking up so many of the extra steps that make something so professional.

  3. That looks so professional. Worth all the effort. I really like the details on that pattern too, but I think you’re right about the zips you left out. They’d be very scratchy.

  4. This is just magnificent, and you should be justifiably proud of this beautiful result. The sleeve heads look amazing!
    With regard to your comment; I put another picture on that blog post to illustrate the inner layer of Cassie’s skirt…

  5. Wow – it looks really great! And I can see why the fabric took up so much room in your suitcase!
    It gives me a big buzz to see another great sewalong result – I hope you’ll make many more!

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