Another African wax print dress: BurdaStyle 07/2011 #131

The two fabrics used in this dress are souvenirs from fabric shopping in Paris with Felicity last year.

The pattern is BurdaStyle 07/2011 #131 in a size 44 with the cap sleeves swapped out for regular sleeves from BurdaStyle 10/2012 #118

I moved the neckline up a few cm, and used my stipey square fabric on the bias for the side front panels.

The handsome Mr Bingley (Nonsuch‘s sewing assistant) helped me place the pattern pieces just right.

Other changes were a centre back zip and slits on the side seams.

I didn’t have a long enough zip, so I added a button and loop at the back neck.

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This dress pattern now will enjoy a break! After 5 versions I think I need to try something else…

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Wattle shirt-dress: Burdastyle 06/2013 #103 pattern hack

Going to a fabric store with Felicity means discouraging the purchase of multiple lengths of novelty fabric. She still manages to get a least one every trip.

Last time it was quilting cotton with a wattle print.

While I moan and groan theatrically at the time, her fabric choices usually turn out okay.

This dress was based on a Burdastyle shirt dress 06/2013 #103 that I’ve used for Felicity before.

After making the normal full bust adjustment, I cut the bodice pattern pieces off at the waist.

The skirt back was a rectangle cut the width of the fabric (112cm).

I used the original pattern to curve up from the hip. I did the same for the two fronts, and cut the facing separate.

I added tucks by eye somewhat haphazardly, with about 2 to 3 cm in each tuck.

The tucks stopped about 10 cm from the side seams, so the dress was smooth under the pockets, and a few cm from the center front so the button band was flat.

The pockets are a great shape, which I highlighted with yellow silk bias trim.

And because I could, I finished the neckline with yellow bias too!

Cute buttons

Cute dress!

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Using the ‘right’ side of the fabric

Thank you for your kind comments on my last post about my reversible skirt. It is a bit ridiculous that making such a simple garment has been so pleasing, but it seems that lots of you are with me on this!

Now, I promised to show you the more mundane use of this fabric.

This simple dress is version #4 of Burdastyle 07/2011 #131.

It’s much roomier than the last version I made. I’m putting that down to the much looser weave of linen cut on the straight grain for #4 versus using tightly woven cotton cut on the cross grain for #3.

Linen and loose fitting – perfect for hot humid weather when I still need to look pulled together. It’s already been worn multiple times.

This time I cut the sleeves on (I butted the side bodice and cap sleeve pattern pieces together, ignoring the wrongly marked seam numbers)

The focus on pattern matching was balancing the vertical stripes down the centre back and front and matching horizontally though the side seams, – not the shoulders! As you can see.

Next up:

The last warm weather shirt dress for Felicity, in her choice of quilting cotton. Australiana rules!

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The dilemma of reversible fabrics

I know which side of the fabric is the right side, but what if I like the wrong side too? That makes it an unintentionally reversible fabric, right?

This fabric is a delightful Italian linen from a high end English menswear line. I was lucky enough to visit Ditto fabrics in Brighton in the UK last year, and this is one of my souvenirs. The right side is the classic navy and white plaid. The reverse has a beautiful bronze coating.

So, what to do?

I did what any sensible sewist would do. I squeezed two garments out of my fabric length.

And made one of them reversible. (I think that means I made three garments…)

The main garment hasn’t even been photographed yet. The squeezed-out-of-the-remnant-and-made-reversible simple pencil skirt? That’s today’s story!

The hem is fringed.

I zigzigged and then pulled out threads

The waist was finished on the brown side with grosgrain.

I turned under the seam allowance at the waist and topstitched the ribbon on. Hardly noticeable on the ‘right’ side.

The darts were top stitched down too.

The zip was exposed on the navy side

And even a more ‘exposed’ on the brown side

I ran the grosgrain ribbon down the seam underneath the zip, to cover the seam allowance.

Looks like that ribbon goes all the way from top to bottom, doesn’t it?!

The other seam got flat fell treatment

and a bias strip covered slit at the hem.

I love this skirt!

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Linen wrap skirt: BurdaStyle 02/2015 #109

More sewing for Felicity

This skirt was made with the same fabulous embroidered linen I’d used earlier for a boxy top.

It’s a lovely wrap style with box pleats front and back and enormous pockets.

Pattern: BurdaStyle 02/2015 #109B

Size: 36-44, I made a 42. It’s a bit big on Felicity, but, being a wrap style, this just means the centre front pleat overlaps a bit at the waist

I ran out of fabric and had to piece the waistband with plain white linen: Felicity’s skirt has a seam at the top of the waistband with plain white linen as the backing, and all of the back pieces and ties completely in plain white. She wrapped the ties back to the front in these photos and then wore a boxy over blouse, so you can’t see them at all.

I top stitched the pleats and flat felled the side seams. And then covered the seams up with enormous wrap around pockets. You could fit a novel in these, with room to spare!

I like this skirt and this style a lot. Perhaps I might steal it from her wardrobe. Or make myself one of my own…

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Fun Sewing: Cleo Dungaree Dress

Does a 50 year-old woman need a teal blue dungaree dress?

Did she sew one anyway?

Course she did!

And put all the pockets on the front …

…and the tiny slit at the back, because she didn’t pay enough attention to the (excellent) instructions.

Pattern: Tilly and the Buttons Cleo

Size: I made a 6 in the longer length

Fabric: Stretch cotton denim in my favouite colour. This fabric is a long term stash dweller; an online purchase from Gorgeous Fabrics over 4 years ago.

Jeans buttons are so much fun to hammer in.

Mine are from the Button Bar in Adelaide Arcade and they are the two pronged ones. They didn’t go in perfectly straight , because I am an amateur button hammerer, so I hope they hold okay.

Fun to sew, fun to wear.

I love my Cleo!

 

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Party at the back dress: BurdaStyle 08/2014 #116

Looks like a sweet little dress at the front

But it’s all party at the back with its lower back cut out, full skirt and mullet hem

Yes, I added pockets.

Because. Pockets are a Thing.

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 08/2014 #116

Size: I made a 42 with a 2.5 cm FBA. I didn’t sew up the vertical dart that this adjustment added, just gathered the bodice waist into the skirt. The waist is elasticized, so you’d never know. Except I just told you.

The fabric was Japanese cotton from my local Spotlight store. It was only 105 cm wide, so I added a centre back seam to the skirt. With the selvedge in the seams so I don’t forget.

The centre back seam meant I didn’t need to add an eyelet or button hole for the ties to come out, because I could just leave an opening in the seam.

Burda’s instructions for the elastic and ties were particularly bad. I ditched them and just did what Dawn of Two On, Two Off did.

Other changes: I didn’t line the bodice, but used self bias binding for the neck and armscyes instead.

It’s about 6 cm shorter than Burda drafted, and Felicity is above average height. We were going for more of a sundress vibe than a long and flowing tea dress.

And look! Sunbeams!

I love this dress! Think Felicity likes it too…

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