Dressing like a librarian: BurdaStyle 08/2018 #109

Felicity’s love of 70’s style continues.  She requested this ‘waistcoat bodice dress’ for her Mothers’ Day outfit*

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We went fabric shopping at Spotlight. I was uninspired by their offerings for the waistcoat bodice dress but we did come home with a lovely dark floral rayon that was destined to be a tie neck blouse.

And become one using this very appropriately name ‘Seventies style blouse’ Burdastyle 01/2016 #114

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… modified to include the neck tie of the dress version:

I don’t yet have a good photo of the blouse because it didn’t make the Mothers’ Day outfit cut. I’m confident Felicity loves it, though, because it has been worn already several times. Here it is in a poorly lit and blurry photo and with her green velvet 70s coat and cross body bag covering most of it up, but still looking fabulous! Even if I do say so myself.

The next step was to make the pinafore dress. A lovely deep green crepe was ordered from EOS. Deemed unsuitable by Felicity (secretly very happy because now I get to use it for me!).

Plan B. We went to The Fabric Store in search of a suitable fabric. (Yes we now have The Fabric Store in Adelaide. So happy about that!)

And we found a beautiful cotton boucle with sparkle. We are both in love with this fabric.

Lets talk about the waistcoat bodice dress pattern. This is BurdaStyle 08/2018 #109.

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I did a bit of pattern manipulation to a straight sized 40 to make it work for a D Cup, and this added a bit to the depth and alignment of the buttons above the waistband.

It was supposed to have the buttons in a vertical line, but I didn’t get the redrafting perfect and bringing the overlap over further gave a better line through the bust, so that’s what we went with.

I lined both the bodice and the skirt, and used lining  on the inside of the waistband and under the flaps to reduce bulk.

I was seduced by sparkly silver bias binding I had in my stash and used that for the hem.

I like how it looks, but it is a bit stiff and really not at all in keeping with the style or the fancy fabric. Will I go back and change it? Hmm. So many other more interesting sewing tasks to do…

Dressing like a librarian. She could not resist with a sign like this!

*Our church group schedules an event (“special meetings”) on the second Sunday in May every year. Yes that’s Mother’s Day in Australia. And yes, a new outfit is traditional.

Here’s three of them…

My dress is a modified sheath dress from Burda (it’s become my TNT) made from a polyester jacquard purchased from The Fabric Store. Our dear friend M of Nonsuch Sewing is in Victory Patterns Hazel made up in a silk twill.

I’ll finish up with this delightful photo of my ‘adult’ children. If you take a zillion photos on your mum’s phone you’ve got to expect at least one of them to turn up on the blog!

Love these crazy kids!

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Sequined and bowed swing top: #108burda12/2017

A gala dinner ticket, 2 metres of sequined stretch velour in the stash and almost enough time to sew something to wear. How could I resist?

My collection of BurdaStyle magazines going back several years provided just the right pattern: Bow Back Blouse 12/2017 #108.

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Image source: Burdastyle

I have to say that I love my new pattern weights – a much appreciated gift. Thanks M!

Sequins went everywhere and my scissors now need sharpening.

Removing sequins was a very tedious part of this project.

Several needles were harmed during production of this garment. I took note of Burda’s advice and used fine size 70 needles in the sewing machine and overlocker. Six needles later I moved to size 90 needles. Much better outcome!

Sewing details

  • Traced out a straight size 44. Forgot to raise the bust darts by my normal 2 cm. At least it’s not noticeable in this fabric.
  • Fabric is a stretch velour with reversible sequins sewn on in a lovely pattern (not straight lines as is often the case and this makes sequin removal more difficult than normal). This fabric is from Gay Naffine and has been in my stash for five years.
  • I used wide cotton bias binding instead of a neck facing. I used the pattern pieces to cut the tapes to length and seamed them to make the V at the base of the front and back before sewing them onto the garment.
  • Only overlocked the armsyces as a consequence of needle breakage. I didn’t remove the sequins from the seams before sewing because it was way too tedious and I was time poor. I did reduce some bulk in the seams by snipping most of the sequins off after seaming, but still needed three overlocker needles to complete overlocking of the armsyces.
  • Hemmed with a wide blind hem stitch and was surprised how well this worked – the sequins made this stitch totally invisible.
  • Grosgrain ribbon hand sewn over the shoulder seams to prevent stretch out and to cover the scratchy sequins.

The back view on Eliza the dressmaking dummy. That bow is such a great feature.

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The back view on me

Black garments are difficult to photograph. At night and in poor light – almost impossible. Add sequins to increase the difficulty factor. And to make the challenge even greater, try to take blog photos in a rush just before you’re supposed to leave for the event. And then stand in front of a dark stained wood panel to make it really hard to see. Such amateurs! Nicely dressed though.

You’ll just have to trust me that the sleeves are awesome and this is really an excellent pattern.

It goes without saying that we had a great evening.

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Classic fitted shirt: #114burda04/2010

More #daughtersewing.

A simple shirt elevated by excellent fabric and custom fit.

This is why we sew

 

The deets

Pattern: Burdastyle 04/2010 #114 (or, in instagram speak, thats #114burda04/2010)

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Size: 40 with 2.5 cm FBA

Changes: left off the breast pocket and back tab, interfaced with self fabric

Fabric: Jocelyn Proust printed cotton from Spotlight. Isn’t it glorious?

Buttons: from the stash.

And that snack she’s eating? Rory made them. Pork char siu in wonton wrappers.

No recipe. Just looked up the ingredients for the char siu spice and sauce mix and added it to pork mince. Then used this as the filling in wonton wrappers and deep fried the parcels.

They were delicious! He’s a star!

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Corduroy trousers: BurdaStyle 03/2019 #102

Felicity and her seamstress (that would be me) are still taking inspiration from the seventies.

This time it is in the form of dark caramel coloured corduroy utility trousers. I know. It’s not the quintessential flares, but it is in orange/brown tones, and corduroy. That’s seventies enough to me.

The fabric is a mid wale cotton corduroy from Spotlight with just enough give in the fabric to be very comfortable to wear. How do I know that? They got worn for three days straight as soon as they were off the sewing machine. There are plenty of wrinkles because these photos were taken on day 3. I don’t think she slept in them, but I wouldn’t be surprised…

I used Burda’s utility trouser pattern from the March issue this year 03/2019 #102

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I made these in a straight size 40 and added 5 cm extra to the length. Plus a 4 cm hem allowance. Woefully inadequate. They needed 14 cm extra to the finished length, which we both agreed looked best as a band with the wales running horizontally.  For the record, Felicity is 178 cm tall, but is short waisted so her legs could be longer than standard for that height.

All my photos are barefoot, so she turned the band up like a cuff, but, trust me, it is the traditional trouser length with flat shoes on.

The belt loop is something fabulous from the stash that originally came from a designer fabric sale. Any Adelaide readers still remember Gay Naffines fabric sales fondly?

I lined the front pockets and belt loops with a leafy green charmeuse remnant.

You can’t really see it ( I worked hard on that!). It has been reported as feeling great. And this is more what the colour is like in real life. The outdoor light with the autumn leaves seems to dull it a bit.

I also added an extra patch pocket to the back.

with one of Kylie and the Machine‘s great tags.

Slow fashion. That’s me.

 

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Seventies coat: BurdaStyle 02/2010 #126

I’ve never liked seventies fashion. I blame it on seventies hand-me-downs from my older cousins that didn’t fit me until the eighties. By which time they were just so uncool.

Felicity, however, has no such bad associations.

We came across a coated denim in the newest store of The Fabric Store in Adelaide. It’s coated in a velvety forest green faux suede sort of layer. Almost upholstery like. Reduced to $12 per metre because it was a bit marked from transport. As you can see above. I just saw a lovely distressed look that would make a great casual coat. So did Felicity!

I used a simple classic coat pattern: BurdaStyle 02/2010 #126. And made it unlined, with flap patch pockets instead of welt pockets, the buttons spread out a lot more and swapped the contrast to the collar instead of the lapels. You know, almost exactly the same.

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I normally do an FBA for Felicity but I did a lazy grading instead: a size 40 at the shoulders then out to a 42 elsewhere. It’s not perfect (those drag lines!) and the stiff of the fabric meant easing the sleeve cap in was a challenge (those puckers!), but it’ll do.

I used another The Fabric Store purchase (a mid to heavy weight denim) for the collar and pocket flaps. It’s really a lot darker in colour than these photos would lead you to believe.

It has a bit of stretch so I interfaced these pieces. I didn’t interface anything else –  my coated denim already had lots of structure.

And this coat was completed with vintage buttons might even have come from a coat from the seventies – they were part of a sewing notions collection gifted to me from an elderly sewing friend.

Pretty happy with how this turned out. And so is Felicity. I’m still not attracted to seventies styles for me though…

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Unlined linen jacket: Burda 02/2009 #115

This jacket was inspired by @groovygreylook. Meridy posted a purple linen version to her Instagram and I remembered how much I liked this Burda magazine pattern.

That was all I needed to search through the archives, trace it off and cut out my fabric.

This is style 115 from the 02/2009 issue. Almost vintage!

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I made this I in a size 44 and I think the fit is just fine.

(early morning photography = odd light )

Of course getting fit right in a boxy style is really only about the shoulders. The dart could be a touch too low and no doubt there are other things that you can see if you look at it very critically. But it’s an unlined and not very structured crumpled linen jacket. The fit is fine!

I used a coated linen that was a souvenir from Barcelona. And because this was such a fabulous fabric I took a little bit extra care.

Hong Kong seam treatments on the sleeves, shoulders and facings.

That’s fusible interfacing on the bias edges of the raglan sleeve seams. I used quite a bit of interfacing in this project, even in the hem (hoping this will stop it rolling up after sitting. So far it’s working!)

Flat felled seams through the main body of the jacket and top stitching.

Precision sewing. This is the shoulder. Ask me about unpicking and lots of pins.

Lots of top stitching. Did I say that already? And extra nice buttons

I particularly like these pockets. They were fun to construct and they are delightfully capacious.

I’m very pleased with this jacket. It’s the perfect smart casual jacket for cooler summer evenings.

I need to reacquaint myself with the rest of my old Burda magazines. Who knows what other treasures lie therein?

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My new favourite dress: Lynn Mizono V1410

I am very late to V1410 party, but I am very very happy to have finally got there!

This is an awesome pattern and so much fun to wear.

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I made two versions in quick succession in January and have since struggled to get photos taken. I’d like my eyes to be open, I’d prefer not to look like a crazy person, my double chin to not make too much of an appearance and not to look 10 kilos more than I used to weigh in my twenties. Too much to ask? Seems so. Hence I’m going with the photos I have.

The first version was made up as a size 14 in a cotton from IKEA.

I cut out a size 14 after comparing the shoulders and neck to a Burda size 44 sleeveless top. This pattern has a lot of ease built in everywhere. Been a long time since I was a size 14 in Vogue! I also took the neck up 5 cm after reading lots of reviews of this pattern which talked about the neck being low.

As it turned out, 5 cm was too much.

I went back to the just 2.5 cm higher (where the size 22 cutting line is at the bottom of the scoop) for the second version.

I love the almost ridiculous ballooned out side seams of this pattern. Another very clever aspect is the adjustable length. There are three buttons up each side seam and a buttonhole in the hem on both sides.

Above is what it looks like inside with the hem up to the first internal button.

And below is me straightening the hem after buttoning it up – it is possible to change the hem length in public. But not advisable.

The top buttons makes it quite short. Definitely the party version.

This is my second version. It’s made up in a black linen nylon blend.

I added pockets to the sides seams of the second version. And yes the buttons are red. So much easier to see! Imagine looking for black buttons on the inside of a black dress.

I skipped the buttonhole for the second version and added a loop of fine elastic instead. Much easier to use.

Here are the loops in use to adjust the dress to knee length and give me a cocktail dress to wear to the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra’s season opening night. It was too hot an evening to dress up in a fancy frock and heels but this dress still made me feel fabulous.

I love it full length too. Don’t have a photo of it but it’s the same as the blue dandelion print one, except more sophisticated…even if I am not.

I predict the black version is going to be the perfect travel dress. Multiple lengths and looks will make it versatile, the black linen is excellent in hot weather and the nylon in the blend gives it a sheen that elevates it to potential evening wear. I haven’t even started thinking about the layering options for colder days. Tights, leggings, T-shirt’s, turtlenecks …

Thank you Lynn Mizono.

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