Brighton fabric shopping and other travelling stuff

I have the best job. I’m a wine scientist and I get to go to wine conferences all around the world. And usually in very nice places.

Like Brighton, England.


Brighton Pier, from the perspective of a merry-go-round horse

Who knew that English sparkling wine had become so good? Not all the consequences of climate change are bad!

The Pier at night, and the beach early one weekend morning

The conference itself was terrific, and a lot of thought went into the social events too.

We had a welcome reception at the Brighton Pavilion Museum, wine tasting at the Aquarium (suitably lit with rainbow colours, and fortunately the wine was not accompanied by sushi as initially planned… I kid you not), and a very British themed gala dinner in the Hilton Metropole’s ball room (wine options, a quiz show, a charity raffle then a Beatles tribute band).

Lots of fun.

Brighton itself is full of life, and full of lots of interesting shops. I showed remarkable restraint. That restraint was very much aided by me having a very small amount of free time and a very specific shopping list.

Dïtto Fabrics delivered!

What a great shop. Had the best conversation with a fellow sewist and Gill, the owner. Sewing peeps are the best!

I came home with two suitings (one wool, one linen, both reversible) and a boiled wool with an pastel overprinted pattern.

 

So what’s happening now I’m home? Apart from petting those new fabrics?!

It’s all about IKEA home decorating fabrics at the moment.

IKEA project #1

I’m making as summer weight coat from this upholstery fabric. And I’m very pleased with how the pattern matching is going. That’s a side seam and a horizontal pocket you’re looking at.

I’d love to get this done before I fly out again in a few days time to go to another wine conference . This time it’s Switzerland. I know, I know, it really is a terrible job I have.

IKEA project #2

This project is still at the flat pack stage.

Felicity and I have a Sound of Music performance to attend in August. We have to have dresses made out of curtain fabric. Have to.

Shall I go all dirndl-y or should I treat this more like a toile and try out some new patterns?

 

Posted in Sewing, travel, WIP | Tagged , , | 15 Comments

The ‘Your time starts now’ skirt

As ridiculous as it is, I made a skirt to wear on the plane just 2 hours before I had to travel.

Yes it does match my suitcase colour

I know. It was just an elastic- waisted skirt with two seams, darts and a hem, but still. I feel all Great British Sewing Bee about it!

Sometimes the #SimpleThingsInLife are the best.

Let me show you a better picture of it

Keeping it real here with slippers and morning coffee.

You can see I made another version of BurdaStyle 023/2016 #103 , too. This one is in delightfully patterned cotton jersey that came to me via designerfabricsaustralia. Its super stretchy. I think it might ends up as marvelous pajamas.

Back to the skirt. It was fabulous for travelling. Easy to move in. Maybe a bit short? Fabulous bright colour. Didn’t crush or wrinkle much. Scuba, so 100% polyester. Lucky it wasn’t too hot…

What did I see and do whilst travelling? If you follow me on Instagram, you might have already seen some of this…

Beautiful Turkey through the plane window. Great weather started even before I arrived.

Scenes around St Pauls Catherdral- walking around on the day you arrive is jetlag remedy #1.

Berwick St London fabric window shopping – jetlag remedy #2

A day in the London office. What a building! With the early morning view around the Strand on the walk there. I was so lucky with weather.

After all that hard work (seriously, it was great to catch up with the London team), I was off to Brighton for a wine conference.

I know. My life is very hard.

More about Brighton (Ditto Fabrics!) in the next post.

 

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Very Hungry Caterpillar shirt and shorts: BurdaStyle 06/2013 #120 and 03/2016 #113

Alternative title: Late summer sewing I neglected to blog about earlier.

Alternative to the alternative title: three blog posts in as many days? what is going on?

Let’s go back to Felicity’s formal. That event needed an after party (AP) outfit.

White shorts and a cute shirt was my brief. Specifically, a cute shirt made from Very Hungry Caterpillar fabric.

(image source)

I was time poor, so a previously adjusted pattern was used: BurdaStyle 06/2013 #120

Back in October 2013, this pattern made a shirt-dress with lobsters and other food.

Cut shorter, and two and a half years later, this pattern made a fitted shirt with caterpillar and food. Hmm bit of a food thing going on here

A demure knee length skirt was not, of course, what she paired the shirt with at the AP!

The AP outfit was completed with white shorts and converse. I have no photos from the night. But trust me, it was cute.

I’ll tell you more about the shorts soon. Let’s stick with the caterpillar for a bit.

The shirt has a unique collar. Totally intentional of course (tongue firmly in cheek)

That’s what happens when you don’t have instructions with you, your traced pattern doesn’t include all markings, and you’re a bit of a shirt collar newbie.

Tab collars, I call them. Or gaping mouths. Totally on song for the fabric

Okay, confession over

For the shorts, I used a pattern from a recent BurdaStyle: 03/2016 #113

I might have even made these in the same month as I received the magazine. That happens only very occasionally.

This was my first fly front for more than twenty years. Burda’s instructions were not stellar. Heard that before?

The pocket trim is very cute.

The stretch cotton I used for the shorts has been in my stash for ages. It’s a ‘souvenir fabric’; from G Street Fabrics in Washington DC, a souvenir of an American Chemical Society annual meeting.

 

Now, talking about souvenir fabrics, I’m looking for some advice. London and Brighton advice.

I have work travel next week. It will include a tiny amount of free time: half an afternoon on the day I arrive in London (I call this walking around to get over jet-lag ) and perhaps half a Saturday afternoon after my conference ends in Brighton.

Should I sight-see or should I souvenir-fabric shop?

I’m kidding of course. My sightseeing will be fabric and sewing themed.

In London I’m thinking the high end fabric stores in Berwick Street, Soho. I think this might end up a bit more like a museum visit than a visit with intent to purchase. But I’ve not been to these shops before, and I have been to Goldhawk Road  and Liberty (and still have the fabric in the stash to show for it.. I need to sew more…). I would so love to visit the Man Outside Sainsburys, but my schedule doesn’t permit.

In Brighton I’m thinking Ditto Fabrics. I have also been commissioned to purchase chocolate from Choccywoccydoodah. Chocolate is close enough to fabric, right?

What do you think? Other things I should do or places I should go?

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The rest of the synthetic ensemble

Thank you for the lovely comments on the vest blog post.

The other parts of the ensemble are the fabulous Rachel Comey skirt Vogue 1247.

Rachel, we love that you drafted such cool pockets for this skirt.

It was lengthened 20 cm. I cut this version out as a 14, and Felicity finds it much less restrictive than the last version.

The fabric is a viscose ottoman from my local Spotlight. It was a delight to sew. So cheerful.

And the top is a modification of BurdaStyle 11/2015 #112

Felicity wasn’t keen on the dropped shoulders, and she was right; they would not have looked good with the vest. The decorative zipper wasn’t needed either. She also needed an FBA. On a French dart.

So instead of doing the right thing, I winged it , merging out to a 44 at the bust on the front bodice only and back into a 38 at the waist. A bit tricky with that dart, but it seemed to work. Using ponte was a big factor in it not being a failure!

I used another burdastyle top pattern from deep in the archives to redraft the shoulders: 02/2009 #108.

The top was a wearable muslin.

I really was intending to make a simple grey dress from this pattern.

So I did.

And it was lovely.

Lets look at the shoulders

See, not dropped anymore.

And that french dart

Looks like an excellent fit when she puts her shoulders back!

It’s not so bad with more normal posture either.

Not that I am recommending my pattern adjustment by winging it.

Ponte meant a zip wasn’t needed, either in the neck or the body of the dress.

It does look better with a slip underneath..

So, the dress turned out well, the fit was to Felicity’s satisfaction and using ponte made it secret pajamas

But it was a bit dull under the vest.

So the wearable muslin top had to be finished! And a skirt made!

Now she has two new winter ensembles.

Another out-take is necessary…and it also shows that the sleeves were drafted extra long..

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No natural fibers were harmed: Burdastyle long line vest 12/2015 #107

Vest in plastic. So fantastic.

This story started with a gift of some very cool fabric from Jann. It is some sort of perforated synthetic double mesh, with excellent body.

This fabric said “long line vest” or some other dramatic and impractical garment. Right from the very beginning.

I knew it would be perfect for BurdaStyle 12/2015 #107.

I chose not to line it. The see through effect is kinda cool.

There’s pleather on the ‘lapels’, another bonded leather type strip on the armholes, acetate for the pocket bags and polyester satin bias binding on the edges. See? No natural fibers anywhere!

That theme continued for the rest of the outfit, the top was made from a viscose nylon spandex ponte and the skirt from a viscose ottoman. Then… Felicity added her own natural beauty, and all that synthetic-ness was balanced out!

Err, maybe not.

Technical details

Pattern details: BurdaStyle 12/2015 #107

Size 38-42, I made a 40 with a 42 bust on the front only. No FBA. Seemed to have enough ease.

Sewing with pleather. And no walking foot. What to do?

The tissue paper trick worked a treat.

The nice clean edge of the pleather on top of the mesh and a edgestitch foot made it very easy.

Tear off the tissue

and viola!

For the armscye binding, I used a piece of strapping (I think? ). It was purchased in Fill2000 (65, rue Réamur, 2nd arrondissement, Paris) a few years ago with a belt in mind, but I used something else instead. So it was waiting for this project.

It’s a bit like bias binding, with the edges turned into the centre on the back of the strap, and glued down. I split it in two and then took advantage of the stickiness to hold it in place for the first round of stitching.

Then I turned the trim onto the front and stitched in place..

Never leave your phone with teenagers.

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Classic navy top in a modern shape: BurdaStyle 02/2016 #103

I really love this top!

I love the fabric.

I love the high low hem

I love the plain back.

I even love the silly little pocket!

I especially love the proportions: sort of crop toppish, but I can lift my arms and not scare anyone with my midriff! ( too be fair, this is a high waisted skirt!)

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 02/2016 #103

There’s been a few nice versions of this pattern appearing in the sewing blog world lately: Handmade by Chris  and The Compulsive Seamstress are two I’ve seen in the last few days

Size: 36-44, I made a 42

Fabric: A beautiful soft cotton knit with fabulous recovery. Bought from Gay Naffine’s sales more than 5 years ago. Sadly this is the last of this piece. The back is slightly sheer polyester crepey chiffon, from deep in the stash. Probably 15 to 20 years old. Vintage!

I cut the back out of a double layer and joined the pieces together at the hem- so that’s a seam rather than a tuned up hem. After joining at the hem, I baste all the edges together and treated the double layer as if it was a single layer

The pocket is the wrong side of the cotton knit. I ironed on interfacing around the edges to give it a bit more structure. I didn’t want a stretched out pocket when I sewed it on!

Changes I made:

Burdastyle intends the neck facing strip to be turned to the inside. I treated it more like a classic T-Shirt neckline binding, so it fills the neck in a little bit.

It also adds a contrast to the back view.

Now, how many more should I make?

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Peanut butter, bacon and dark chocolate cookies and chocolate whoopie pies: gluten free goodness

Now that’s a blog title I never thought I’d write!

The cookies were polarizing. I mean. Come on. Peanut butter, bacon and dark chocolate??

A little bit greasy, but the flavours were fabulous. They were made for craft night a few weeks ago. Rory devoured the leftovers. I might have helped a little bit too.

Peanut butter, dark chocolate and bacon cookies

recipe from Joy the Baker

  • 1 cup chunky or smooth peanut butter
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 6 slices of bacon, cooked, cooled and coarsely chopped
  • 1 large handful dark chocolate pieces

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 175 °C. Line trays with baking paper.
  2. In a medium bowl, combine peanut butter and sugars until well combined. Add egg and baking soda and mix until well combined. Fold in cooked bacon and chocolate pieces. That’s it. It really is that easy
  3. Roll into large walnut sized balls before placing on the baking tray and squishing to flatten slightly.
  4. Bake for 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool on a baking sheet for five minutes.

The whoopie pies were not such a hit, but this was mainly the fault of the filling because the cakey-cookie part of them was delicious. The filling was too sweet and didn’t have enough flavour. Easy to change this though: Even a teaspoon or three of instant coffee would make a big improvement.

 

Chocolate whoopie pies

recipe from Taste

  • 125g butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla essence
  • 1 cup caster sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 1/2 cups gluten-free plain flour
  • 1/2 cup cocoa powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon gluten-free baking powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda
  • 1/2 cup buttermilk

Filling (add instant coffee or orange zest or something else to lift the filling out of blah)

  • 125g unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 1/2 cups pure icing sugar, sifted
  • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, sifted
  1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Line 3 large baking trays with baking paper.
  2. Using an electric mixer, beat butter, vanilla and sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition
  3. Sift flour, cocoa, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl.
  4. Add half the flour mixture to butter mixture. Stir to combine. Add half the buttermilk. Stir. Repeat with remaining flour mixture and buttermilk until just combined.
  5. Spoon batter in a large piping bag fitted with a 1cm plain nozzle. Pipe 3cm wide rounds onto prepared trays, 5cm apart, allowing room for spreading. Stand for 15 minutes. The recipe said to pipe 32 of them. We had lots more than this
  6. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes or until tops are firm. Cool on trays.
  7. Make Filling: Using an electric mixer, beat butter in a bowl until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in icing sugar and cocoa. Spoon mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 2cm fluted nozzle. Pipe filling onto 16 rounds. Gently top with remaining rounds.

Posted in Biscuits, Cooking | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments

Not a formal scuba dress for me: Burda 6858

Thank you for your lovely comments about Felicity’s dress.

I have one more photo of that event to show you, because I have a scuba dress too…

Why do I have a scuba dress? It was all part of the formal dress drafting journey I’ve been on.

One of my lovely readers, Tj, theperfectnose, suggested Burda 6858 as a springboard pattern for the bodice to knock off the inspiration dress.

 

It was close. I liked it. And I very much liked the dress Erica Bunker made from this pattern.

How to do an FBA in this style? Would I need to since it was scuba, and Erica didn’t say she’d done one, and she does for some other patterns?

Only one way to find out! Make one that fits me and see how it looks on her.

There was some logic to this – our bust measurement is the same, but I’m several cup sizes less than Felicity, and larger than her through the waist and hips.

There was also fair amount of escapism. Paper pattern! No drafting! Cute printed scuba in my hot little hands! A stretch lace that would coordinate with it!

Conclusion: It did fit her through the bust. But the waist was too loose and the hips not fitted enough. Plus, she didn’t like the style, particularly the waist seam.

Bonus: It does almost fit me :-)

Technical details

Pattern: Burda 6858, style C

Size: 32-42, I made a 42. Flat pattern measures told me there was a lot of negative ease in this pattern. There is photographic evidence below. I do feel a bit like I’m wearing a sausage casing, and there’s a bit too much sausage. But YOLO. (Can you tell I’ve spent too much time with teenagers recently?)

Fabric: printed scuba from Spotlight with cotton stretch lace from Tessuti’s for the inserts. I’ve used this red stretch lace previously for contrast sleeves on a top. Seems I’m destined not to make a whole garment out of this fabric! I also used a strip of Felicity’s formal dress poly stretch lining for the neck facing.

The neck facing was stitched down with a double needle, but I left off topstitching the other seams.

It’s a fun dress!

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Orange Scuba for 2016 Royal Blue Formal

Felicity had an awesome time at her school formal. I took squillions of photos at the ‘before party’, and don’t seem to have even one sewing blog worthy one.

Oh well, I’ve already told you about the sewing details here and here and the inspiration dress here.

Can’t you just hear this conversation?

Megan: What’s with the raw edge? Didn’t your mum have time to finish the hem?

Felicity: I know. Can’t get good seamstresses these days

(Actually, it was more along the lines of dealing with a train)

Ah, one sewing relevant photo below: the lining (playing a double act here as glasses cleaning material)

This photo shows that I really should’ve ‘hemmed’ her dress a little higher. Or Felicity should’ve worn higher heels…

What this photo also shows is only one date. I love that the girls didn’t feel they had to take a guy with them if they didn’t want to. Go Girl Power!

Felicity wasn’t the only one whose outfit was made by her mum.

Sally did an awesome job of Sophie’s jumpsuit.

The dress code for some family members at the ‘before party’ wasn’t quite at the same standard, but they were still part of the fun.

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Formal dress, all done bar hair and makeup

..and talking about sewing… here’s a sneak peek from the last and final fitting

If she stands up straight those wrinkles on her stomach disappear. Whatever. Fitting is done. No more adjustment necessary!

A fun after party outfit has also been sewn:

A shirt from ‘A very hungry caterpillar’ printed cotton and white shorts with cute scallop details on the pockets

Hopefully, I’ll have photos from the event this weekend to share soon…

Posted in Sewing, WIP | 22 Comments

Dealing with a surfeit of bananas: banana pecan cake with maple syrup glaze

Banana purchasing in our house is a fine example of excellent procurement. It’s not very often that supply outstrips demand.

But, when just occasionally, He who Shops gets it a little wrong, She who Bakes needs a good banana cake recipe.

This one, from Chocolate and Zucchini, is pretty good!

 

Ingredients

  • 80 grams (3/4 cup) pecans, toasted (in the oven for about 5 mins while its preheating) and roughly chopped
  • 280 grams (2 1/3 cups) plain flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 140 grams (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  • 100 grams (1/2 cup) brown sugar
  • 40 grams (2 tablespoons) maple syrup
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon rum
  • 3 large eggs
  • 4 ripe bananas, about 600 grams weighed with skin, peeled

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 175°C and grease a 24-cm savarin or ring mold, a loaf pan, or a simple 20-cm (round cake pan (I used a kugelhopf ring tin, because I had one :-) )
  2. In a medium bowl, combine the pecans, flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
  3. Cream the butter and sugar then add the maple syrup, vanilla, and rum. Add the eggs one by one, mixing well after each addition.
  4. Mash the bananas with a fork and fold them into the batter.
  5. Add the dry ingredients to the batter and use a spatula to combine, gently lifting the batter and folding it over itself until no trace of flour remains; don’t overmix.
  6. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes.
  7. Let the pan rest on a rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife or a thin spatula all around the cake to loosen, then remove from the pan and transfer to the rack to cool.
  8. Let cool for 30 to 40 minutes before glazing (see glaze recipe below).

Maple Syrup Glaze

  1. Sift 50 grams (6 level tablespoons) icing sugar into a small bowl.
  2. Pour in 40 grams (2 tablespoons) maple syrup, and whisk vigorously with a fork until smooth.
  3. Spoon over the cake and spread with an icing spatula or the back of the spoon.
  4. Don’t add some and then add a bit more latter, unless you like the runny and thick two tone glaze look shown below

Enjoy with a lovely cup of tea, in a break from all that sewing…

Posted in Cake, Cooking | Tagged , | 6 Comments

Japanese jacket

The formal dress is going well.How can it not when the best sewing day ever #2 was scheduled by M of NonSuch Sewing at her place?

Even the snacks coordinated with my sewing . And that is very cool elephant fabric. You’ll have to stalk M’s blog to see what it got made into. No pressure for the blog post M!

The sewing supervisor was delightful too.

Now there is only the hem left to do on the Orange Formal Dress. ‘We’ need shoes before that happens.

So let’s talk about something different.

How about my new casual jacket?

It’s got pockets. That in itself is enough to make me smug.

Also. Collar options. I quite like it like this, so I need to find a button or snap to add.

Technical Details

Pattern: Jacket J from Happy Homemade Sew Chic, a Japanese sewing book gifted to me from La Sartora the Christmas before last. My bad for not making something sooner

Here’s the model photos:

And here’s the line drawing

Size: I made a 16. All the patterns in the book, including this one, are in sizes 6 to 16 (bust 78 to 102 cm).

It’s a little big through the back in particular, as you can see in this view.

Fabric:

A lightweight navy chambray from deep in the stash. Last used in 2012 for this dress

Changes I made:

I lengthened the ties by about 15 cm.

I wanted them to be similar in length to the jacket when tied.

I drafted a 3 cm wide neck facing and added a 3 cm hem and side front facing rather than the minimal turn under recommended in the book. My chambray has a definite right and wrong side, and I wanted to make the wrong side showing bit look like a design feature, not poor planning. With linen, as made up in, in the book, this would not be necessary.

Thanks for the pattern book La Sartora! Pretty pleased with how my easy new summer topper turned out.

Best of all, this jacket took 4 hours to complete, from finding the pattern book to parading around in the finished jacket. Beat that, Orange Formal Dress!

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Formal dress progress – drafting done

A month has gone since I last posted. I probably don’t need to tell you that the formal dress drafting has been all consuming….

And it’s now almost done. Thank goodness!

The bodice toile is now a flat pattern – yes two of the pieces go to hip height and one doesn’t. I know. Bad pattern maker

I played around with adding bra cups and boning to the bodice toile, but it was a very unsatisfactory experience for all involved. See the last blog post for how Felicity felt about trying on endless bodice toiles with different sew-in bar cups. A strapless bra was a much better solution!

It was time to turn the bodice drafts into dress pattern pieces. I used the skirt part of the original pattern as a guide, elongated it and flared out from the knees on the side and centre back seams. Then added a train.

Cutting out long pieces like this is the real reason we have a dining table that seats 10!

I’m cautious so I just cut out the lining and facing and sewed that up. My live model consented to a fitting. She’s happy about her choice of orange. I was happy with the fit, but the back needed to be more racer back in style. Pattern drafting wasn’t over yet!

If you look closely you’ll see a zigzag stitching line just inside the stay stitching line.

I’m experimenting with clear elastic on the facing to keep the bodice snug up against the body on these bias cut pieces.

A zigzag line just on the inside facing edge front and back won’t show, and it might just help with the overall fit.

Fingers crossed I’ll get most of the dress done soon. D-Day is April 2.

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Formal dress drafting…part 1

Felicity *loves* this part of dressmaking

As a side note, who would have known printed scuba was so good for toiles?

When it’s inside out you can draw in the changes so easily with sharpies or textas (and random smiley faces too), plus re-pinning the seams is a cinch!

I think textas might be my new favourite sewing tool.

How the toile is looking so far.

I haven’t yet tried it on the live model. See first photo for reason.

Once I have, and it’s all okay, the next step is to work out how to add internal support. I’m thinking a sort of shelf bra arrangement with cups. Unchartered territory for me. This could all end in tears!

Posted in Sewing, WIP | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

The mindfulness dress: BurdaStyle 07/2011 #131

No I haven’t found that pattern yet.

But lets talk about something different.

Why should the mindfulness colouring in trend be limited to paper?

Fabric can be coloured in too!

I had a lot of fun with this dress.

And who says it over? Boring meeting? I can whip out my textas and zen out some more. There’s plenty more to do..

This dress started as a toile. The fabric has been in my stash for some time.

I wasn’t too concerned about the selvedge showing on the centre back seam, because this was a toile.

Does it really matter if part of the text printed on the selvedge “Designed by Sissi Edholm & Lisa Ullenius 2005 IKEA of Sweden AB” shows on the slit?? (It was deep stash. 2005 makes it almost vintage!)

Then I tried it on, and really liked the dress as well as really liking the pattern (the pattern was subsequently used for the teal party frock).

This would be a great hot weather dress I thought. Specially in linen, which is exactly what this fabric is. Pity about the selvedge.

So I lined and finished it. And then did a bit of colouring in.

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 07/2011 #131

Size: 36-44. I made a 44.

Fabric: Linen outer from IKEA (deep stash) and a lining from cotton batiste with a light sparkly coating from Ferrier Fashion Fabrics– it feels lovely against my skin.

The black and white linen got some extra colour round the waist thanks to textas.

These were not special fabric pens. I did a trial run with a scrap and washed it. None of the colours I wanted to use ran, except purple, and maybe red just a teensy nit. The red did bleed a bit after the first wash too.

Bleach might turn out to be my new best friend.

Changes I made:

I moved the zip and the walking slit to the back and fully lined the dress rather than just faced the neck line.

The sleeves stick out. They also stick out on other sewists who made this dress with sleeves, like Doctor T and njnow02.

I double and triple checked that the pieces went together in the right way. So either they are marked incorrectly, or the model in the fashion shoot has amazingly broad shoulders.

This is a great pattern. I need to make another version! I do have the traced off pattern filed away where it should. Now, back to looking for the other one…

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