Twisted Shoulders and Silver Circles

I really loved the Dec 2011 BurdaStyle. Full of lovely red Christmassy frocks, gorgeous green evening dresses and tweedy English winter styles. None of it suitable for Australian Decembers or my lifestyle needs but still..

One of the beautiful green silk bias cut frocks was also available as a top. The style lines looked very interesting as did the pattern pieces and construction. The top was shown in both a satin version and a challis version. Getting closer to daywear and more likely to work in my wardrobe than that gorgeous green evening dress..

I had a white cotton batiste with metallic silver circles. Perhaps this pattern and my top would make an interesting and cool Christmas top?

Well, sewing plans and sewing time rarely line up and the top was then intended to be a New Years Eve top rather than a Christmas top. That was, if I also had time to make a white linen skirt. Which I did not.

And I still have not.

Hence the photos on Eliza the dressmaking dummy, rather than me.

One thing I didn’t pick up from the photos nor from the pattern is what an extreme plunging neckline it has, even after adding a button and loop. Lucky I’m not overly blessed in boobage, because then it would be cleavage city.

The back has a similar deep V.

Another interesting feature of this style is the shoulders.

I think I like this top but I haven’t yet worn it, partly because of the neckline and the paintbrush shoulders but also because it is still an orphan. Lovely fabric though!

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 12-2011-122A

Size: 36-44, I made a 42 through to the waist, grading out to 44 over the hips

Fabric: Cotton batiste with metallic circles from Gay Naffine this spring.

Changes I made:

I made this up exactly as Burda said until I tried it on. Then I added a button and loop to make the neckline slightly less revealing.

If I made it again I would sew the shoulders together in a regular manner (that is, with the raw edges inside. Burda almost did this for the other version of the top 12-2011-122B. I don’t mind the raw edge look but the paintbrush look is not so appealing. There was a similar twisted shoulder style in the May 2011 issue of BurdaStyle (05-2011-107B), although in a knit and with a ruched bodice. This might be a better interpretation of this style, at least for me.

This is a very easy project. The main challenge is keeping track of the fronts and backs on the (four!) underarm gussets and sewing them to the correct main pattern pieces.

A dress for Ruthie’s wedding

Weddings are a great excuse for a new dress.

Felicity had liked style 110 in the May 2010 Burda Style since the magazine arrived in our letterbox, and now we had an excellent reason to make it up.

The style has lots of nice details: pintucked bodice and fluttery sleeves (more than intended by the pattern drafter- more about that below)

The bodice has a fairly low scooped and wide neckline. Fashion tape was useful here to keep the great aunts and uncles calm and a strapless bra stopped the worry about straps showing.

Felicity added a vintage scarf in just the right colour (of my mums) as a belt. Lucky I keep all that stuff!

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 05-2010-110B

Size: 17-21, I made a 19 (the petite version of a 38) with a 15 mm FBA.

Fabric: Cotton voile from Spotlight lined with white cotton batiste

Changes I made:

The major change was unintentional. I misread the pattern piece number for the sleeves (4) for the number to cut out (should have been 2).

It was sort of clear that the straight part had to be sewn onto the back bodice, but how was I supposed to sew the two sleeve pieces together to make one sleeve? (wish I had consulted the instructions a bit better!).

I sewed the smaller concave curved edges together (and very nicely too with French seams).

This gave an exuberantly fluttery sleeve, but I had to subsequently trim some of the straight edge off the front side of the sleeve piece to get it to fit the neck line.

The sleeve still extended a little past the neckline down the edge of the first tuck. I’ve drawn the edge in below, in yellow

For the record, this is how it should have gone together:

The other change was to move the side zip to the right (Felicity is a leftie).

I used French seams for all seams except between the bodice and the skirt. I finished the sleeve and skirt hems with a rolled hem.

All four sewing machines in my fleet were used for this project:

• Bernina for the bulk of the sewing
• Elna overlocker to finish the bodice skirt joining seam
• The other Elna for the invisible zip insertion (still don’t have the Bernina foot for that)
• Janome for the rolled hem (same).

At least the machines are not going to seize up from lack of use!

Cafe latte skirt

You’ve already seen this skirt, but, until now, I haven’t told you all the fascinating details about its construction.

[It has been ironed, very rigorously, but it's a metallic poly cotton blend, and those metal threads just love crinkling up the weave unless they are pulled very taut.]

The style is a classic princess line pencil skirt with an integrated high waist, centre back zip and a walking vent. I added belt loops so it can be worn with a self belt (as above) or with a purchased belt.

Technical details

Pattern: Burdastyle 08-2011-122

Size: 36-42, I made a 42 grading out to 44 at the hips

Fabric: Medium weight cotton polyester metallic blend from Gay Naffine.

Changes I made:

I omitted the pockets and added belt loops. Kay the Sewing Lawyer has a great tutorial on making belt loops, which I sort of followed (by memory and then looked at again after it was too late to do anything different…)

I lined the skirt with cotton batiste. Both fabrics are delightful to touch and the cotton lining makes this skirt cool to wear in hot weather (34°C today and we’ve had a week of over 30°C; that’s over 85°F).

Instead of iron on interfacing I sewed organza onto the seam allowances of the lining for the integrated high waist of the skirt pieces and onto the fashion fabric in the seam allowances of the walking vent.

I made a matching gently curved tie belt. I copied a RTW belt and had just enough fabric left over, about 20 cm by 150 cm wide, to fit a curved 5 cm belt onto.

Changes I’ll make with the next version

I’m planning another version without the integrated waistband and with a godet inserted into the back seam (rather than the walking vent). The style is quite pegged and I find that the walking vent pulls apart and looks like a slit. A really bad example is below, and the heavier top tucked in is responsible for the drag lines across my high back hip ( I hope!-other back views don’t look as bad!)

I also like the other shorter version, style 08-2011-121, with the ruched front panel. If I had a lot more time and a need for a skirt like this, I’d try this too! ( but I say that about many patterns…)

Wrapped with my blouse

I loved this blouse when the September 2010 issue of BurdaStyle arrived in my letterbox, but, as is a common occurrence for me, I’ve taken over a year to make it up.

I blame part of this on getting the issues six months out of season, but it’s really because there are so many styles I like I couldn’t possibly make them all up in a timely manner.

Melissa’s recent silk version reminded me that I really did need to find the time to make this style.

I had some very lovely transparent silk cotton with an abstract design that I thought might look good made up in a draped style, and this pattern looked like the one to try.

Yes, success!

And this is certainly not a BurdaStyle with a plunging neckline. [The skirt is not yet blogged, but is made from lovely fabric from the same shopping spree )

This is a beautiful blouse to wear. Airy on a hot day yet covered up enough in front due to the crossover style and deep self facing and with a modest high neckline. The beautiful hand and look of the fabric helps too!

I prefer it tucked in but it can also be worn out.

This is a very easy pattern to make up. I can see more in my future wardrobe…perhaps some with long sleeves for winter…

Technical details

Pattern: BurdaStyle 09-2010-110

Size: 36-42, I made a 42 grading out to 44 to the hips

Fabric: Silk cotton blend

Construction:

I used French seams on the side seams but couldn’t get my head around doing French seams on the shoulders and integrated collar pieces. So the seam allowance from the front on the bias was stitched over the (trimmed smaller) seam allowance from the back (sort of like a self bound seam but with no hand stitching)

I added a small piece of organza to add some stability under the buttonholes and under the buttons. I didn’t use any edge finishes on the organza (apart from pinking) but because it is semi enclosed, and the blouse will be carefully laundered, I think it will be okay.

Changes I might make next time

The buttons at the hips are a bit clunky (even though I used nice thin buttons). Adding ties and turning this into a real wrap blouse could be good. Other clever sewists have already made this change.

Cinnamon cookies

Mmm yum, cinnamon cookies

A very easy recipe from Ms Gourmet at Gourmet Warrior.

 

Chewy Cinnamon Cookies

Ingredients

75gm unsalted butter
1/3 cup of brown sugar, firmly packed
1/3 cup golden syrup
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 ½ cups of self-raising flour, sifted
Icing sugar for dusting

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6 (180C in fan forced electric oven). Combine the butter, golden syrup and brown sugar in a saucepan. Over a low heat, gently melt the butter and dissolve the sugar and syrup together without boiling.
2. Set aside and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Then stir in the cinnamon and sifted flour and mix until well combined.
3. Roll heaped teaspoons full of the mixture into walnut sized balls and place 5 cm apart on a tray that has been lined with baking paper. Flatten gently with a fork.

4. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are slightly browned. Carefully transfer to a wire rack to cool and lightly dust with icing sugar before serving.

Makes about 20 when you use the recipe correctly and about 46 very hard biscuits when you double the recipe and then realise you don’t have enough golden syrup so you substitute honey and maple syrup to make up the measure.

They are very yummy, with that slight tang from the golden syrup under the cinnamon deliciousness and a chewy texture.

And another good thing about them?

Minimal dishes!

Oh, and baking hasn’t overtaken my main love (sewing, just in case that wasn’t clear..) but I am considering taking up crochet after seeing these beauties around the streets of Adelaide:

image source: Bike Art Adelaide

Back to work

I’ve had a lovely short summer break with my sewing machines my family. But it has come to an end.

The dining room needs to turn back into a dining room from this:

I did a bit of reorganising on my break as well as a small amount of sewing. See that big neat stack of folders in the centre of the table?

Thats the pattern sheets of my BurdaStyle magazine collection all neatly in order. And the magazines themselves are neatly in folders in date order too.

See that big stack of fabric?

That’s all the projects I haven’t made yet. Too many plans, not enough time..

A table shared is a pleasure doubled

Whether it’s a ride in the country, an umbrella in the rain, or a heavy load to lift, a problem shared is a problem halved and a pleasure shared is a pleasure doubled. A recent invite to come up to the hills for a swim and escape the temperature 41^oC by some good friends was a true pleasure. The children had a great swim and us oldies enjoyed the cooler conditions and shared a sumptuous table.

Just nibbles the host said…. she had prepared feasts for Christmas and New Year’s gatherings and supposedly wasn’t going to prepare more!

Hah! I have heard that before!

In fact she had not one but two fantastic terrines accompanied by home-made pickled capsicum and onion relish, one a chicken watercress and tarragon beauty and the other liver and veal. Disappearing after a bit she returned with cassata …home-made ice-cream in the centre, fresh blue berries and raspberries…I always feel humbled in the her presence.

I had prepared a salad for everyone to share based on an old favourite from many years ago. It is a simple chicken mango avocado salad but the thing that sets it apart from the rest is the dressing.

Chicken salad with macadamia dressing and mango salsa

This is the original recipe; I have often taken many liberties and substituted or omitted several ingredients and maintained a measure of success.

3    cups good chicken stock
4    chicken breast fillets (see note)
1    tablespoon macadamia oil
1     handful of macadamias, roughly chopped
1    bunch of watercress, trimmed, washed well and broken into pieces.
Note: Baby spinach or any salad greens can be substituted for the watercress.
2    avocados, sliced
250g     sugar snap peas, blanched and refreshed

Dressing

1    tablespoon olive oil
1    onion, finely chopped
2    teaspoons curry powder
1    Tablespoon paw paw and mango chutney
1    tablespoon apricot jam
1/4     cup unsalted macadamias
2    tablespoons raspberry vinegar
2    tablespoons macadamia oil
2    tablespoons olive oil
1/2     cup whole-egg mayonnaise
1/4     cup thin cream

Salsa

2    ripe mangoes, finely diced
1    small Spanish onion, finely chopped
2    tablespoons light olive oil
2    tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2    tablespoons finely chopped mint
1    teaspoons honey
1     small fresh red chilli, seeded and finely chopped
For salsa, combine ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Cover and set aside so flavours can blend and develop.

Bring chicken stock to the boil in a deep Frying pan.
Reduce heat and gently poach, chicken fillets for about 8 minutes, or until cooked through.
Remove from stock and set aside to cool.

Note:    I normally cook the chicken fillets on a grill pan instead of poaching.

For dressing, heat oil in a small saucepan, and cook onion over medium heat until translucent.
Add curry powder and stir for 1 minute. Remove from heat, stir in chutney and jam and mix well.
Set aside to cool. Process macadamias in a food processor until, well chopped.
Add vinegar and oils, process until well combined.
Combine with the cooled onion mixture, mayonnaise and cream.
Mix well. Set aside.
Heat macadamia oil in a small frying pan and cook macadamias until lightly golden. Arrange watercress, sliced avocado and Peas on individual serving plates. Slice chicken fillets and arrange in centre of salad greens.
Spoon over some dressing. Add 2 tablespoons of salsa to each serving and sprinkle with macadamias.