Coat muslin, IKEA style

I’ve listened to you and worked hard this weekend on my coat.

I know you are expecting something like Burda’s vision of elegance for this pattern (BurdaStyle 11/2014 #111)

But, I’ve made a muslin and it’s not an elegant coat in any way.

IKEA upholstery fabric. So much more fun to make muslins from than, well, muslin.


The first thing you probably noticed (after the sad blue face on my tummy), was the collar. I’ve got mine on the roll lines marked on the pattern

That’s how the shorter version of this coat (BurdaStyle 11/2014 #110) is intended to be worn

Good to know I have options!


Okay lets look at the fit.

This is a straight size 42, with no changes except to make the sleeves a bit roomier though the upper arm.

It doesn’t look too bad to me, but please let me know what you think.

I can see a couple of things

  • The “waist” seam is sitting on my waist, but the pattern is drafted with this seam 1cm or so above the waist. I considered shortening the bodice (I often need to) but the bust darts are about right (sorry, can’t see them in my photos). I’ll probably leave this like it is.
  • There’s a bit of excess fabric under the bust at the sides.

Apart from the extra fabric under the arms on the side, the back looks good. Yes that is a fabric marking pencil in my hair. From Paris (so there is a tiny bit of elegance after all!)

The side views show that the bottom edge might need to be leveled


My plan is to use this pattern for this fabric.

It’s an Oscar de la Renta double-faced wool, linen and mohair blend, woven houndstooth with metallic threads and a dark brown laminated back. A fabulous gift from Liz of Designer Fabrics Australia, my favourite online fabric shop!

I’m planning to use it like a double faced fabric, with the laminated side on the outside and the tweed showing on the collar and the turnback.

I need to play around a bit with the fabric, but if I can, I’ll use lapped seams for the vertical seams, to show a little bit of the tweed and highlight the style lines.

Do you think I should try to get rid of that fabric pooling under my bust? The IKEA fabric is not quite as thick as the Oscar De La Renta, and a little bit stiffer. Perhaps a bit of extra ease here won’t be too much of an issue? All advice gladly received!

Oh, and I’m very tempted to cut out another collar piece and a front facing in hot pink for the IKEA coat, chop the coat down to hip length and line it. It could make a fun casual topper! What do you think?



37 thoughts on “Coat muslin, IKEA style

  1. Wow! You have really excelled yourself here! All speed-sewing awards straight to you!
    I think making the IKEA coat into a wearable one is an inspired idea! I would definititely wear it. Is it possible that it is a little big overall. I wonder if you took the bodice down to a size 40 maybe the extra fabric under the bust would disappear? And maybe also from the back shoulder area?
    It’s going to look spectacular in the fashion fabric. Can’t wait to see it finished (but please, do take your time, I feel almost a bit guilty for pressurising you into this muslin ..)

  2. By all means, finish this jacket. We all need unexpected fun in our wardrobes. It will look so cute with jeans and skirts alike.
    I’m not so sure about it being big over all. I think I would go ahead and cut it as there is nothing so major that it can’t be tweaked. The wool is going to hang considerably different than the IKEA fabric.

  3. I loved this pattern but was really curious about wether you could close the front up to the neck for warmth if necessary – I don’t have the three-dimensional skills to “see” how it would work in my mind. What happens if you pin it closed all the way up? Does the collar fall in an attractive way, or is it not functional?
    and love the muslin idea! A fun spring jacket to wear with jeans.

  4. Looks pretty good to me. I think you don’t want it smaller if it’s a coat. I would make the Ikea one up for casual wear. The cushions I am leaning on are made from that fabric…. wears well! Your coat will look amazing.

  5. What a fantastically crazy muslin! I would sure finish it off and wear it! Unexpected and a sure conversation starter. The fit throughout seems pretty good, although it’s impossible to see the shoulders under that fantastic collar. I love your fabric choice, and am just wondering if it will shape like a wool, or if you need to treat it like an unsteamable heat-sensitive polyester because of the lamination. I guess that would inform whether you should tweak the fit under the bust. But I do think coats should have a bit of extra ease in them for wearing over regular clothes. This is going to be so gorgeous!

    • The shoulders are good too, note to self, document muslins better!
      I think it will be more like an unsteamable plastic, but I haven’t cut into it or played with it at all yet.

  6. Yes, by all means, make the Ikea coat with a pink collar. I don’t think that little bit of extra fabric in the bust area is a problem, especially with that large collar kind of concealing it. And it will probably be more comfy if the fit is left as is.

  7. I used the leftovers of IKEA fabric for a jacket muslin I made last year. Much cheaper than buying new calico, with a better hand.
    Definitely make the muslin to wearable stage. It would look great at an art show opening.
    I don’t think the extra fabric under bust is a problem really. I think the fit looks pretty good overall.

  8. Heee! I have this fabric but had no idea what to sew with it. Muslin seems as good idea as any. I actually think it would make a fun jacket! Good luck with tweaking your coat, it’s looking good so far.

  9. That’s one classy muslin! No major fitting issues that I can see. Your real fabric is thicker and you’ll need the ease to be able to move. Narrow the centre back seam just a little between your shoulder blades.

  10. Oh wow, it’s so soooo fabulous – please DO finish it off and wear it! And the fit looks really good to me – at most it’s only a tiny, small amount to remove from the front bodice length, isn’t it? You might not even want to do that on a thicker fabric!

  11. Woa! At this point i am obviously just adding to the choir: definitely finish the muslin (such a fun jacket!) and i can’t wait to see the real thing in that gorgeous fabric! I want to touch it, the combination of soft and plasticky must be really interesting. And will you make it double sided? If you use lapped or flat felled seams you can definitely have it reversible i think, and since the two sides of the fabric are so different the coats would have very different looks, i bet. Plus now i have to start looking at ikea fabrics for my muslins. I always find a print that i love when i am at ikea, but i also find them too stiff to buy for a dress or skirt. I never thought about making a coat…

    • It is a very beautiful fabric and the tweed is totally gorgeously soft. I do intend to use lapped seams, but that is more to highlight the vertical seam lines. than to make it reversible. I’m not sure if the laminated side would work so well inside. Hmm. more food for thought!

  12. You absolutely have to finish that muslin and turn it into an incredibly fun coat! But I also have to say that I am really looking forward to the real thing as well.

    • Me too. My IKEA coat is gracing the sewing “room” telling me to finish her off and my gorgeous laminated tweed is front and centre in my stash, telling me to get on with it.

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